August is the Time to Divide Perennials and Rebuild the Soil!

 Hello again,

Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM.

We are halfway through the month of August now and it is now time to divide our perennials that have finished flowering and have outgrown their place in your garden. Dividing perennials is not just a way of making new plants with our overgrown plants, it is a way to revive them, and a time to remove the older portions that have become weak or died back and could draw potential insect and disease problems to your garden. Plants like irises, daylilies, hostas, peonies, and more are best divided while the ground is still warm and we have good growing weather and time for them to get established before winter arrives.

Here is an example why you need to divide your plants. If 3 years ago you planted one German iris rhizome in your garden in the fall, it will have flowered the next spring and as the flowering faded, the mother plant will have made 2 new side shoots for the following year. This would double the amount of flowers but the mother plant gave all her energy to the new plants and died. The following spring you now have two plants that will flower and when they fade these two plants will repeat the process, making two new plants each, giving you four plants for the next spring and again more flowers. The two mother plants also die so you now have four new healthy plants in the spring with three dead plants attached to them.

Irises have a major pest called an iris borer; it is attracted to your garden to feed on your dead rhizomes. This pest can also feed on the healthy tissue of your new plants preventing flowering in the spring. During August dig up the plants, remove the dead portions, clean the remaining healthy rhizomes--and now you have 4 healthy plants that should be insect-free. This is also the time to condition the soil and rebuild the soil quality so the new plants can thrive in your garden. Natural products like composts and manures will provide improved growing conditions for the new plants.

If you have had problems with the iris borer, it is also time to treat the soil with Bonide Garden Eight granules which will kill and borers that remain in your soil. Fertilize them with Flower Tone by Espoma and your plants will be ready to thrive for the next 3 years without problems. Also when you plant, cover the rhizome with one inch of soil or less. Space iris plants on 18 in centers so they have room to grow. If you’re adding mulch over the planting bed add less over the iris plantings because they want to stay close to the surface of the soil.

Plants like daylilies and hostas should also be separated to make new plants to share with friends and family. These plants grow in the shape of a fan; when you separate them. Try to create new plants that contain 3 to 5 fans of foliage for faster plant development and to keep from losing the flowering for a year or two because the new plants are too small. Condition the soil like the iris and keep well-watered until the fall arrives. Remove all faded or yellowing foliage and clean the new plants to keep them healthy. All three plants need to have half of the existing foliage removed when divided, as this will help establish the plants faster. Divide daylilies and hostas every 3 to 5 years, depending on their size. Space plants of daylilies every 2 feet and 3 feet between rows to allow room for future growth. Hostas will vary, depending on the variety--from 2 to 3 feet between plants. Mulch 2 inches deep helps protect plants during winters with little snow cover or with very cold weather.

Peonies grow from a swollen root or tuber underground and at this time they have pointed buds on them known as "eyes." These are next year’s foliage and flower buds. Remove all the foliage from the plant, dig up the entire plant, and clean the soil from the twisted looking roots. What you want to do is to cut them into pieces that contain 3 to 5 of these "eyes," so they will be strong enough to flower the following spring. Dust the cut you made with a general purpose garden dust or garden sulfur and allow to dry for an hour or two before planting. This will prevent rotting of the tuber when put back into the ground.

Condition the soil like the other perennials we have talked about and plant shallow, like the German iris. The pointed buds should have less than an inch of soil over them when placed in the ground or the plant will not flower when planted too deep--maybe that is why your plants are not flowering very well now in your garden. The tuber should be about the depth of your finger knuckle and when you dig into the soil you should be able to feel it easily. Space your new plants every 2 feet and 3 feet between rows to give them room to grow for the future. Peonies are divided every 5 years and should also be mulched lightly--about one inch thick--to protect the plant during the winter and help hold moisture in the soil during the hot days of summer.

Bleeding hearts can also be divided at this time, and--like the peony--the roots are covered with pointed buds for next year. Make you cuts with a sharp knife that has been dipped in a bit of bleach to sterilize it before cutting the plant and during each cut. Make sure each piece you cut has 3 to 5 buds so the plant can grow quickly and flower for you next spring. Condition the soil before planting and cover the new roots with 2 inches of soil and 1 to 2 inches of mulch them for winter protection and summer heat. Space plants 2 to 3 feet between plants as they will grow large when mature and divide them every 5 years. Fertilize in the spring with an organic flower food like Flower Tone by Espoma to help get the plants off to a quick start.

When you divide in the late summer to early fall, you help to create a better plant, as it can establish itself in a warm soil before the cold weather arrives. Spring-divided perennials start up slower and if the weather is warm and early like it was this year, the plants begin to grow before you have time to divide them--possibly hurting them. Look over your garden; any perennial that has finished flowering can be divided at this time of the year. Always condition the soil and keep the plant well watered until October. Use Bio Tone by Espoma to speed up the rooting process. It is well worth the small investment and most garden centers have it available right now. Bio Tone is also great for all your Fall plantings of shrubs, trees, bulbs and hardy fall flowers like mums and fall flowering asters.

This Saturday, August 25 we are holding a great class called Dividing, Relocating and Transplanting Perennials. Class time is 10 AM. We have openings still in Brunswick (442-8111) and Cumberland (829-5619)

Special Thanks to Paul Parent

Mike Skillin

Skillin's Greenhouses

August 21, 2012

April (Late April) Garden Talks

Hello again,

Well what a difference a year makes! In my Late April 2011 post I was no longer writing about melting snow (I did that for weeks in Spring 2011) BUT I was talking about cool temperatures and very frequent rains.

Okay....As I write this post and edit the garden comments Skillin's Country has just received a major outpouring of rain. To my chagrin, I just found the Official Skillin's Country Rain Gauge had cracked and therefore had no reading. SO, I will have to rely on the official metorological report.

Let me say without hesitation the days of April 22 and 23, 2012 brought HEAVY amounts of rain to a very dry Skillin's Country. I am sure we had MUCH runoff but I am just as sure our ground is now soaked. That is great--our lawns and plants of all sized will use this rain well. Perennials and shrubs will explode in growth! Trees will leaf out! And our lawns (especially those cared for by the Skillin's Lawn Program) will turn a rich, rich green!

*Our gardens are growing and taking shape. You may be looking at your established layout and decide you want to change some of your design. Now is an excellent time to transplant perennials and many shrubs. Most plant growth is minimal as the roots are just getting started so that means less transplanting shock for the new transplants.

The ground is wet and that will help to hold the soil around the roots better, preventing the small feeder roots from being damaged during the move. When you replant into the new garden, be sure to set plants at the same depth that they were in the garden originally. Be sure to condition the soil before planting with good organic matter like compost or manure. We have the best choices right here at Skillin's!

*Now is the time to apply Corn Gluten to your lawn for weed control. Corn gluten naturally smothers seeds (including weed seed) from germinating. This is very helpful in controlling crabgrass and dandelions as well as other pesky lawn weeds. Corn gluten can be applied to open perennial gardens now for the same reasons. Corn gluten also makes a good organic fertilizer and we sell it here under the label Lawn Booster Plus! For a good overall and EASY to achieve Lawn Program click Skillin's Lawn Program--designed for you!

*Now is a great time to prune deciduous hedge plants like privet and burning bush. These plants do not flower and you will not risk any flowering. Do NOT prune rhododendrons, lilacs and forsythia now. These plants are soon to flower. Flowering shrubs like that are best pruned RIGHT AFTER they flower.

*Now is a great time to fertilize all perennials, shrubs and trees with their Spring feeding. We love Pro Gro by North Country Organics or Plant Tone by Espoma for all plants that drop their leaves during the winter. (also known as deciduous plants!). We love Holly Tone by Espoma for all evergreen plants that love acidity in their soil. Not to be confusing but blueberries and Blue Hydrangeas are also fans of Holly Tone! These plants are starving for a good organic meal after a long winter and it is time to feed them!

*Windy rain storms blow wet rain into our bird feeders. Don't forget to clean the wet food out of your feeders as our feathered friends "turn up their beaks" at the wet food. They like it dry! Also we should be seeing Orioles soon so now is a great time to hang out some orange slices to try and attract them to your yard. We also sell orange Oriole feeders here at Skillin's!

*Now is a great time to sow pea, carrot, beet, radish, spinach and swiss chard seeds right into your garden. We also have for sale various and exciting lettuce, micro greens and cole crops that grow well even in this cool weather. Soon you will be harvesting! Frankly our leaf lettuce can be eaten starting now. Plant in a soil enriched by compost or manure but also throw in a handful of Garden Tone by Espoma.

You CAN now start tomatoes indoors!

*Now is a great time to start an herb garden in a container. We have all kinds of great Skillin Grown herb choices for your palette. There are no better spices than fresh herbs and the plants are fun to grow! Herb plants come in many different growth habits and textures. Click HERE for a link to a past post in the Skillin's Garden Log about gardening with herbs.

*With this warm Spring, I would plant a few gladiola bulbs in the ground. If you have the space and inclination continue to plant a few more every week until early July. This will give your garden and your cut flower vases a constant source of gorgeous glads from mid summer through a good part of the fall!

*Again with the warm Spring consider planting corn. The growing of corn of course goes back to the Pilgrims. It grows well in Skillin's Country and while all freshly picked vegetables taste awesome; freshly picked corn might stand out the most from store bought corn . Years ago, Jim Crockett in Crockett's Victory Garden wrote about growing corn and I think he was right on:

"Corn is a very heavy feeder...(we recommend preparing the corn planting bed with a layer of compost mixed with a quality organic garden fertilizer like Garden Tone by Espoma. The large corn plants will really draw on the mix of compost, garden soil and Garden Tone)....The trick to corn pollination is in the planting of the rows. Corn is pollinated by the wind; the pollen falls from the male tassels onto the female silk. If the corn is planted in just single rows of each variety, the wind is apt to carry the pollen away and the results will be corn cobs not completely filled out. So I always plant at least 4 rows of each variety." Mr. Crockett goes on to suggest several varieties of corn ranging from early season varieties to late season varieties. Also plant 2 seeds or kernels about 1" apart then another cluster of two another 12" away. Push the kernels about 1" into the ground.

I suggest side dressing the young corn plants after about 2 to 3 weeks with Garden Tone and then side dressing them again about 2 to 3 weeks after that. Again those big corn plants are heavy feeders!

*Now corn is a big tall plant and 12 inches between plants can be a lot of available space in your garden! What plants make good companion plants for corn? Edward C. Smith in the acclaimed Vegetable Gardener's Bible lists beets, bush beans, cabbage, cantaloupe, cucumber, morning glory (curious about that one), parsley, pumpkin and squash. These plants stay low. Do not grow tomatoes with corn! Tomatoes need space and also tend to grow quite high as well.

*Even if you just have a corner of space in your garden, try planting potatoes. We have seed potatoes and great varieties to choose from! Again prepare your hole about 5" down with some compost and Garden Tone. Potatoes like their food. Cut those seed potatoes into pieces with about 2 to 3 eyes. We have organic Garden Dust by Bonide. Pick some up (this is a good product to have in your inventory) and "shake and bake" your potatoes in the organic Dust. If you have the room give your potatoes about 12" of space. Plant them in a trench about 4 to 5 inches deep. Cover the potatoes that are lying on a mix of soil, compost and Garden Tone with about 3" of soil. As the plants grow--and they will grow!--pull soil in to keep the plants cool. The farmers call this "hilling" or "mounding". When you are hilling your potatoes, you too will be a farmer!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
April 24, 2012

Fall is the Time to Divide Bleeding Hearts and Peonies in the Garden

Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club (http://www.paulparent.com/) sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM. Paul recently sent this article out called Fall is the Time to Divide Bleeding Hearts and Peonies in the Garden (I occasionally add a few comments in italics) and here it is:

"Traditionally, the temperatures cool down now, rainfall increases, and so does the morning due on our garden plants. The garden soil is still warm and if you have energy left from this hot summer, let's begin to think about dividing our perennials.


Here are a few perennials that you can divide now and share or swap with friends and family. Most large nurseries that sell large potted perennials are doing this right now, while they have the time. Spring is just too busy for them and potting perennials now will give them bigger and stronger plants in the spring.

Divided plants get a chance to make big roots before winter arrives and in your garden the plants will be ready when spring arrives next year. All you will need is compost or animal manure, Soil Moist to help hold moisture around the new roots and a fertilizer like Bio-Tone or Plant Thrive that contains mycorrhizae.

Bleeding heart, a wonderful spring-flowering perennial, has to be divided now! Because the plant develops and flowers early in your garden, you will forget to do it then. By now the foliage is turning yellow and beginning to fall apart. Cut all the foliage to the ground and put it in your compost pile.

Carefully dig around the plant with pitchfork or shovel to loosen the soil and pull the roots out of the ground. Shake some of the soil off the roots so you can examine the plant better. You will notice that the plant has developed several buds underground and just above the roots. If you want a nice plant that will flower for you in the spring divide the roots and bud clusters into sections that contain 3 to 5 buds! Pull apart or cut with clean sharp knife.

I always dust the area where the plant came apart with rose or garden dust to prevent insects or disease on the exposed area. Condition the plants' new home with suggested products (we love Shrub and Tree Mix by Jolly Gardener or Penobscot Blend by Coast of Maine!) and set plants at same depth they were before you pulled them out of the ground, then water well. Water the plants 2 times a week until Columbus Day and place compost 2 inches deep over plants to help protect plants during the winter. (Set this mulch or compost over the plants when the ground freezes up--typically in mid to late November).

Bleeding heart plants do best when planted in a shady garden, but will also tolerate morning sunshine. Soils should be well drained and be free of clay soils. Bleeding hearts will flower by Mother's Day and make a wonderful gift for Mom.

Peonies, a classic garden perennial, also need to be dividend now, because the plants grow so quickly and the flowers that develop are so fragile in the spring. Just like the bleeding heart, cut back to the ground and dig up so you can clearly see the roots.

Peonies will have large thick roots that will grow deep into the ground and will be more work to divide. Shake off the soil and you will see, on the top of these woody roots, 1/2 inch hard, pointed buds that are brown in color. As you would for the bleeding heart, cut roots carefully so each piece has 3 to 5 buds on each piece you make. This 3 to 5 bud count will almost guarantee you flowers in the spring.

Now, the most important thing to remember after conditioning the soil is to make sure the roots are planted very shallowly into the ground. The top of the bud should be no deeper than one knuckle of your finger below the surface of the soil. When planted too deep the plant will not flower!

Peonies do best in a sunny location but will also do well with a bit of shade in the morning. The flower of the peony is very large and plants will do best in sheltered areas, away from wind. Try to place peony cages around plants in April to help hold the many large flowers the plants will make if you get heavy rains. (Great advice!)

Divide the peony plants every 4 to 5 years to control size, but dividing is not necessary to keep the plants happy--they can go untouched for 10 years or more. Non-flowering plants are your signal to divide them and raise them closer to the surface of the soil. Enjoy!"

Taking Stock Again

KCB is a professional gardener and friend who does wonderful work in the Greater Portland area. KCB is also an accredited Master Gardener by the Cooperative Extension Service and we are honored to have KCB as part of our Skillin's Garden Log family. KCB can also be found at the awesome Finishing Touches website.




What a summer. Perhaps not a true record breaker but I did hear that the recent and much needed rainfall surpassed a record set in 1901.


I admit this writing is a reworking of some insights previously shared. Let’s call it another form of recycling. On the other hand, think of it as your favorite laundry detergent, much of the ingredients remain the same, just new and improved.

It is often during these dog days of summer our gardens appear to be out of control. This is the time of the year I suggest walking around the garden to see what is successful and what isn’t. The absence of rain or diligent deep watering has kept this season’s beds a little less vibrant and congested. Therefore, this season your focus will be on other conditions.

Additionally, I hear that we are in for another wave of heat. This means we have some work to do and soon. The key for this exercise is to prepare with preventative measures. Armed with Journal, pen and/or digital camera walk around your landscape.

So, how do your plants look? Stressed? Wilted? To get to the root of the problem, gently scratch an inch below the surface. Dry?! Where did the record rain run? What of your watering? I cannot stress enough the importance of a long slow trickle. I admit, standing with a hose may cool you off and is better than nothing, it doesn’t do the job. Sprinkles are better but still not enough. Soaker hoses. That is the ticket. No need to install expensive irrigation if you don’t have the funds. Soaker hoses can be snaked throughout your garden. Most quality hoses even withstand our Maine winters. Allow for 2-4 inches per week. To keep shrubs and foliage plants looking perky, a misting early in the day or at dusk is a true refresher.

I plead guilty when it comes to my personal garden. Hand watering early morning & early evening still left some plants less than happy. It pained me to cut back some of my Echinacea, yarrow and Veronica. Pain cured when the results were the perfect medicine for these rebloomers. Shasta daisies are sporting buds on dwarfed stems. Same for my Globe Thistle. Others such as Daylilies are set for an early rest. I carefully chose plants that would not be harmed by late season growth. August? Late Season?

It seemed as if this gardening season was jump started by a month with all blooms along for the ride. How often did we hear ‘isn’t it early for (fill in the blank) to be blooming?’ Shearing these particular perennials should keep blooms booming for weeks to come.

As I review the landscapes of my clients it is evident that shade perennials are suffering the most. The plants I love the best for shaded areas, heuchera, astilbe and Cimicifuga (now known as Actea aka snakeroot, black cohosh etc) are cloaked in capes of dry crinkled foliage where lush leaves once were. Plants that are used to shaded and slightly moist soil are hit the hardest. To offer solace I resorted to covering the area with a compost and mulch mixture. Coast of Maine’s Fundy Blend is a tonic in a bag. In taking stock I will stock this product at all times. It will join my perennial favorite, Coast of Maine’s Penobscot Blend. I also cannot forget to leave room for Worm Castings. Coast of Maine introduced their own bag of worm waste. I must thank them for housing it in a carry bag. This made life so much easier as I happily hand hauled it to all my container plantings. A perfect top dressing to improve the water retention.

Gardeners are cursed with selective memory. We will forget the effects of a drought during the rains of next spring. Weather happens in patterns. Several Mays and last June had many a gardener prone to webbed hands. Did we ever think we’d experience a hot arid summer again? Take stock for the future. Be prepared. Purchase that soaker hose, grab a bag of organic compost & mulch blend. And don’t forget the worm’s contribution!

However, don’t stop now. Step back; look at your landscape with the eye of a visitor. What is it that you see? How would you react if seeing it for the first time? Look for empty pockets, or crowding. Is there evidence of, mildew or fungus? How about pest damage? What about color, too much, not enough? If you do just not ‘love’ something, jot it down.

August may not be the best time to divide, move, and/or transplant. The weather is too hot, often too dry, though now you know how to water, and will unduly stress plants and the humans that love them. I’m not saying it cannot be done, however if at all possible wait until late fall, or early spring as may be appropriate. Who am I kidding? We will do what we will. If something is being choked and/or not able to be seen, then by all means, cut back or move what ever is in the way. A plants life just may be at stake. (If you do transplant now, just water, water, water!)
Not up to doing this now? Prefer to wait? Congratulations! However, you’re not getting off that easy.

Love everything in your garden? Pleased with the results? Do not put that camera or journal away. Record the pleasures.

In any case, you’ve worked hard. Pour yourself another glass of Ice Tea and relax…………..

KCB for the Skillin's Garden Log
August 27, 2010

Divide & Conquer! by KCB

KCB is a professional gardener and friend who does wonderful work in the Greater Portland area. KCB is also an accredited Master Gardener by the Cooperative Extension Service and we are honored to have KCB as part of our Skillin's Garden Log family.



I tend to get a little melancholy at this time of year. As soon as the slight hint of autumn chill hits the air a rush of three distinct feelings or are they memories, overcome. First, I have a desire to go ‘back-to-school shopping’, though I have now been out of school for more years than I was ever in.

Second, I have the urge to sky dive. I have 11 ‘jumps under my belt’. The first 5 were a few days before starting my freshman year at The University of New Hampshire. My next six were the following September, at the start of my sophomore semester. To this day, I hear a small Cessna or Beechcraft type prop plane overhead; I secretly hope that I can transform myself back to a time when I had a little less sense and no real need for more.

Thirdly, it is at this time of year I am the most excited about the results of the gardening season yet my heart aches with the knowing that soon my pruning shears will be put into over drive as I cut back and clean-out.

So let us prepare to begin the end.

I’m not saying it’s is time to put our gardens to bed, let us at least wind it down, almost like drinking a cup of cocoa or warm milk to ease into the night.

For most perennials, fall is the best time to transplant and divide. Recently I facilitated a class and one common question ‘How do I know the plant needs to be divided?’

It’s not always as obvious as it would seem. If the plant is too crowded or too large, then division or transplanting is recommended. Many plants such as Achillea ‘Yarrow’, Gaillardia ‘blanketflower’ and asters, will become woody in the center. Others will simply form rings where nothing is growing in the middle, (Iris, Sedum). These are signs the plant has become too large and needs division. Hosta, Daylily, Shasta Daisy are served best to divide every 3-5 years. Others can remain undisturbed, Peony, Astilbe. Then there are those with such long taproots, Balloon Flower, or extensive root system, Baptisia, that generaly resent being divided or moved.

As in every gardening project we must prepare. A few carefully chosen tools will better serve than a random arsenal.

First thing to bring, a great attitude. We tend to be a little less enthusiastic at the end of the season. Think of it as getting a jump-start on next! Cleaning the closet to allow for more purchases. Mix and matching old favorites so everything is new again. Make a celebration of it. Put burgers on the grill, beer in the cooler and invite friends and neighbors. Their reward is a good time and a few plants. Next season can be someone else’s turn.

Tools:

· Hand saw—sharp. I tend to make people nervous anytime they see me with a sharp instrument. Hosta and Daylilies are tough. Do not be afraid to dig right in.
· Digging Forks—2 would not be over-kill. Great for dividing daylilies. Simply position them back-to-back and push to separate.
· Sharp utility knife—perfect to divide bearded iris and peony.
· Hedging clippers or shears—Sharp! Great for getting many stems at one fell sweep. Hosta fear them, Daylilies are petrified.
· Flexible or 5 gallon buckets—magic number is 2; one half filled with water for any plants you may need to soak. This is great for untangling fibrous routes and removing invasive weeds or grasses from a perennial clump. The second bucket is to mix your soil and compost.
· Bagged planting mix or compost—I cannot say enough wonderful things about my favorite, Coast of Maine Penobscot blend. I always mix this in with the soil. I heard it once said, for a 5-dollar plant create a 50-dollar hole!
· Watering can—I water in before and after.
· Water Soluble Plant Starter—the reason for the aforementioned watering can.
· Gloves—I often have 2 pair, one designed for working in the mud. I get really down and dirty and since I have watered in before, there is no telling how dirty I can get.

The following is only a partial list of perennials. As always, our favorite gardening center is always happy to answer any specific questions you may have regarding dividing perennials. You do not even have to leave the comfort of your computer, just e-mail!



"What, When, Time, How"

Achillea ‘Yarrow’3 years
Early spring
Dig clump, shake off soil, remove central woody stem. Plant as dry root. Do not allow to dry before planting

Alchemilla
‘Lady’s Mantle’
6-10 years
Early spring
Cut crown into sections making sure each crown has a strong root system

Aster
2-3 years
Early spring
Cut into soil with a sharp spade between mother plant and emerging growth. This plant benefits from early pinching.

Astilbe ‘False Spirea’4-5 years
Early spring
Cut plant into divisions with sharp spade or knife as new growth emerges. Each division should have 5-growth buds w/strong root support.

Baptisia ‘False Indigo’
Not recommended
As new growth emerges
Dig deeply around entire plant to expose extended root system, remove without breaking. Wash, clean and cut sections assuring that each section has several shoots and amply supply of roots.

Balloon Flower
Prefer not to be disturbed
Early Spring
Lift Clumps as new growth emerge. Dig Deeply so that as much of the fleshy root is taken. Wash plant free of soil and cut into sections making sure each has strong shoots and ample roots. May not bloom for a year or 2

Campanula ‘Bell Flower’
4-5 years
Early Spring
Cut into soil with sharp spade or knife. Make sure each crown has a healthy root system

Chelone ‘Turtlehead’Anytime
Early Spring
When new growth is 1 inch, sever the young plant from mother plant with spade.

BugbaneNot required
Early Spring
Dig clump, shake, and wash off soil, cut plant into sections containing several shoots and ample roots.

ClematisNot necessary
Early Spring
Dig entire clump when new growth emerges, cut crown into piece assuring each portion has 1-3 stems and generous roots

Coreopsis ‘Tickseed’
2-3 years
Early Spring
Dig entire clump as new growth emerges. Wash or shake the soil. Cut plant assuring each has several growth buds and ample roots.

Delphinium ‘Larkspur’
1-3 years
Early Spring
Dig entire plant as new growth emerges. Wash or shake soil, cut crown into sections assuring each has 3-5 stems and healthy roots.

Garden Mum
Yearly
Spring
Dig entire clump; shake surplus dirt, cut off new growth from central core. Discard old portion and plant new sections immediately.

Hardy Mum
Yearly
Spring
Cut clump into sections with sharp spade.

Dianthus ‘Pinks’
As needed
Early Spring
Dig entire plant as new growth emerges. Cut into sections making sure each has strong growth ‘eyes’ and healthy root system.

Dicentra ‘Bleeding Heart’
Every few years if needed
Early Spring
Dig up clump as new growth emerges, wash away all excess soil, and cut plant into sections. making sure each has strong growth ‘eyes’ and healthy root system.

Echinacea ‘purple coneflower’
If needed
Spring
With sharp knife or spade slice crown into sections.

Geranium ‘cranesbill’
6-10 years
Early Spring
Dig entire plant as new growth emerges, wash it free of soil, pull apart by hand. Assure each division has a number of strong eyes and healthy roots.

Heliopsis
When clumps begin to die in center
Spring/Fall
Cut clump into section with sharp spade, discard old central portion of the crown

Daylilies
Every 3 years
Spring/Fall
Dig up entire clump. Use sharp knife, spade, or fork to divide. Wash soil. Make as many divisions as possible. Plant as bare root

Heuchera ‘Coral Bells’
2-3 years
Early Spring/l
Late Fall
Dig up entire plant, divide with sharp knife into sections of several stems and ample roots. Discard older center clump if woody.

Hosta
3-5 years
Early Spring/fall
Dig up entire clump. Use sharp knife, spade, or fork to divide. Wash soil. Make as many divisions as possible. Plant as bare root

Iris
3-5 years or as needed
Anytime after blooming/late summer
Divide Rhizomes

Daisy ‘Shasta’1-3 years
Spring/Fall
Dig up plant, cut crown into sections with sharp spade or knife making sure each division has several shots and healthy roots.

Liatris ‘Gayfeather’4-5 years
Spring/fall
As new growth emerges in spring or late fall. Dig up the plant and wash it free of soil. Cut the corms or rhizomes into sections with a sharp knife Make sure each division has strong shoots. It may be best to dust with a fungicide. Plant new divisions immediately.

Lily
As desired
Late Summer/fall
Dig up large clump, divide into individual bulbs, sow.

Loosestrife
‘Gooseneck’, ‘Yellow’
6-10 years
Early Spring
As new growth appears dig entire plant, wash it free from soil, separate with fingers or sharp knife. Make sure each section has several shot and ample roots.

Monarda ‘Bee Balm’
Every year or as needed
Early spring
Dig up plant, cut into sections, remove woody or dead centers. Take divisions from the newest growth outside the clump.

Nepeta ‘catmint’As needed
Early Spring
Cut into clump as new growth emerges. Divide as needed making sure each section has healthy foliage and roots.

PeonyPrefer not to be disturbed
Early fall
Did deeply and remove entire clump from ground. Wash and clean dirt from extensive root system. Cut with sharp knife making sure each division has 3-5 ‘eyes’. Remove dried and broken root tissue. Recommend dipping roots in a broad-spectrum fungicide. Do not bury too deep to keep portion of ‘eye’ exposed.

Phlox
2-4 years
Early Spring
Dig up plant as new growth starts. Cut Crown into sections each with 3-5 stems and ample roots. Discard central core if woody or dead.

Rudbeckia
‘Cone Flower’ ‘Goldsturm’
‘Black-eyed Susan
4 years
Early Spring/Fall
Dig entire clump retrieving as much as root system as possible. Cut clump into sections each with several stems and healthy roots attached.

Salvia ‘Sage’
As needed
Spring/Fall
Dig up the entire clump as new growth emerges or as plant dies back. Cut clump into sections each with several stems and healthy roots attached.

Sedum ‘stonecrop’
As needed to maintain shape and size
Early Spring
Dig up or slice into plant. Sedum has a tendency to fall away from soil as you work with the plant. May be planted in several clumps making sure healthy roots and shoots are attached.

Spiderwort
2-3 years
Spring/Fall
Best as new growth emerges. Dig entire plant, use sharp knife or spade to cut into sections each with several stems and healthy roots attached.

Vernonica ‘Speedwell’
3-4 years
Early Spring/fall
Dig up or slice into plant as new growth emerges or as plant dies back. Cut clump into sections each with several stems and healthy roots attached.

It has been said that "all is fair in love and war". If it was only so in gardening. What we cannot conquer we will endure (or remove it complete and replace it with something better!)

KCB for Skillin's Greenhouses
August 28, 2008
(reprinted August 25, 2009)