Hello again,
Good gardener Margaret of A Way to Garden brings us a great post on How to Grow Carrots. There is some detail here and some good corrections of some misnomers, so if you want experienced guidance on how to grow carrots, read on!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 20, 2012
Tuesday, March 20, 2012
March (Late March) Garden Talks
Hello again,
Late March is almost here! Skillin's Country is a busy, busy place. We have just finished a fun, fabulous, fragrant, fresh and fantastic Spring 2012 Open House at Skillin's Falmouth. Thanks so much for coming everybody!
This coming weekend brings our Spring Open Houses to Brunswick and Cumberland. I will be at both and hope to see you there! Click HERE for our Open House Specials!
We have had some very very nice weather in Skillin's Country for sure. Many plants are up ahead of schedule for sure. It seems like good gardening is upon us but I still think we have some cool weather ahead of us so do proceed with caution.
*It will soon be time to prune roses, butterfly bushes, and other summering flowering shrubs. Click HERE for a great primer on pruning that we posted previously in a prior year. (Seriously, a very good gardening article!).
*Okay so we shouldn't do any raking or much traversing over the wet ground yet. Dry areas can be raked. If you still have not done so here are more than a couple of pre season suggestions to do:
1. Clean and reorganize your garden storage area.
2. Get your lawn mower re serviced. Remember to sharpen or have sharpened your lawn mower blade for better cutting of your lawn.
3. Got old tools. Condition those handles with some linseed oil.
4. Start doing some stretching and some good deep knee bends to get the gardening body limbered up. Some good warm up for the season exercises are found at this post by KCB.
*Find your hoses, get them ready to hook up. Test them for leaks and to see if the washers need to be repaired.
*If you have not done so, make that sketch of your vegetable garden and flower garden. Better yet, try to figure out ways to plant flowers and vegetables together! Marigolds make great companions for vegetables as marigolds help to deter pests.
*Did you have woodchucks last year eat some of your plants (I had a pesky wood chuck bother my plants). Come see us and pick up a Mole Mover tube. Insert that tube into the ground near the woodchucks den and drive the woodchuck away. These tubes work!
*I live on a busy road that is heavily sanded and salted. The grass strip near the road is one of the earliest to dry and my wife and I have been out there with a broom and a rake getting all the sand off that strip. Once that is accomplished I will spread some all natural Gypsum pellets over the area to absorb some of the salts in the ground. Gypsum also helps to aerate that soil that is compacted by the salt. The area rebounds pretty quickly with this treatment and also I am thankful that several years ago I re seeded that strip with deep rooting Black Beauty Tall Fescue Grass Seed by Jonathan Green (sold right here at Skillin's!) Black Beauty's deep roots enable that grass to thicken and "green up"quickly in the Spring.
*If you do have a hot, sunny spot: in the next few days you should be able to plant some cool loving vegetables like peas, swiss chard, carrots and others. I have a south eastern spot in front of my roses that by mid summer gets crazy hot. But in the next few days I am going to plant some pea seeds there and hope to get some early peas. They better come early because I want to have some basil and other hot weather lovers in place in that same spot by late June. We will see....
*It has been warm and most gardeners are pulling that mulch off their perennials and roses. I have pulled some; I still have more to go. I am usually lagging on pulling the mulch off I want to make sure the temperatures are not going to crash down. Everything seems fine at this point!
*If your yard is not too boggy in a few days, get out there and pick up and remove all the dead branches from the ground. Put the roof rake away and maybe even the snow shovels!
*Clean up all dead growth on your perennials if and when your ground drys a little at the surface. Still stay away from wet spots in the garden; too much treading on this will compress the soil. In most cases the soil should be fine to tread on!
Good friend Hammon Buck of Plants Unlimited in Rockport ME sends out some great gardening tips. Here are some of this week's tips which I think really hit the spot!
*From Plants Unlimited: "Wait until the grass is dry – not spongy (to rake your lawn). Working on lawns that are too wet compacts the soil, reducing the air in the soil – not the effect you are striving for.
Contact us at skillins@maine.rr.com with any questions!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 20, 2012
Late March is almost here! Skillin's Country is a busy, busy place. We have just finished a fun, fabulous, fragrant, fresh and fantastic Spring 2012 Open House at Skillin's Falmouth. Thanks so much for coming everybody!
This coming weekend brings our Spring Open Houses to Brunswick and Cumberland. I will be at both and hope to see you there! Click HERE for our Open House Specials!
We have had some very very nice weather in Skillin's Country for sure. Many plants are up ahead of schedule for sure. It seems like good gardening is upon us but I still think we have some cool weather ahead of us so do proceed with caution.
*It will soon be time to prune roses, butterfly bushes, and other summering flowering shrubs. Click HERE for a great primer on pruning that we posted previously in a prior year. (Seriously, a very good gardening article!).
*Okay so we shouldn't do any raking or much traversing over the wet ground yet. Dry areas can be raked. If you still have not done so here are more than a couple of pre season suggestions to do:
1. Clean and reorganize your garden storage area.
2. Get your lawn mower re serviced. Remember to sharpen or have sharpened your lawn mower blade for better cutting of your lawn.
3. Got old tools. Condition those handles with some linseed oil.
4. Start doing some stretching and some good deep knee bends to get the gardening body limbered up. Some good warm up for the season exercises are found at this post by KCB.
*Find your hoses, get them ready to hook up. Test them for leaks and to see if the washers need to be repaired.
*If you have not done so, make that sketch of your vegetable garden and flower garden. Better yet, try to figure out ways to plant flowers and vegetables together! Marigolds make great companions for vegetables as marigolds help to deter pests.
*Did you have woodchucks last year eat some of your plants (I had a pesky wood chuck bother my plants). Come see us and pick up a Mole Mover tube. Insert that tube into the ground near the woodchucks den and drive the woodchuck away. These tubes work!
*I live on a busy road that is heavily sanded and salted. The grass strip near the road is one of the earliest to dry and my wife and I have been out there with a broom and a rake getting all the sand off that strip. Once that is accomplished I will spread some all natural Gypsum pellets over the area to absorb some of the salts in the ground. Gypsum also helps to aerate that soil that is compacted by the salt. The area rebounds pretty quickly with this treatment and also I am thankful that several years ago I re seeded that strip with deep rooting Black Beauty Tall Fescue Grass Seed by Jonathan Green (sold right here at Skillin's!) Black Beauty's deep roots enable that grass to thicken and "green up"quickly in the Spring.
*If you do have a hot, sunny spot: in the next few days you should be able to plant some cool loving vegetables like peas, swiss chard, carrots and others. I have a south eastern spot in front of my roses that by mid summer gets crazy hot. But in the next few days I am going to plant some pea seeds there and hope to get some early peas. They better come early because I want to have some basil and other hot weather lovers in place in that same spot by late June. We will see....
*It has been warm and most gardeners are pulling that mulch off their perennials and roses. I have pulled some; I still have more to go. I am usually lagging on pulling the mulch off I want to make sure the temperatures are not going to crash down. Everything seems fine at this point!
*If your yard is not too boggy in a few days, get out there and pick up and remove all the dead branches from the ground. Put the roof rake away and maybe even the snow shovels!
*Clean up all dead growth on your perennials if and when your ground drys a little at the surface. Still stay away from wet spots in the garden; too much treading on this will compress the soil. In most cases the soil should be fine to tread on!
Good friend Hammon Buck of Plants Unlimited in Rockport ME sends out some great gardening tips. Here are some of this week's tips which I think really hit the spot!
*From Plants Unlimited: "Wait until the grass is dry – not spongy (to rake your lawn). Working on lawns that are too wet compacts the soil, reducing the air in the soil – not the effect you are striving for.
Raking the lawn is a true test of how out of shape you are after the winter!
As soon as the snow has retreated and your lawn is dry, rake the old debris, sand, twigs and other foreign matter off. This will help remove thatch and debris that might restrain grass growth as well as aerate the lawn. Air and light will also trigger lush growth. All of this helps to get your lawn greening and growing."*From Plants Unlimited: "Start seeds of cole crops, including broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower indoors under lights. You'll have transplant-sized plants in about 6 weeks, ready for planting outdoors a few weeks before the average last spring frost date.
Although April is the month to sow seeds of many flowers, some take longer to mature and so should be sown this month. Flowers you may sow early in March include dusty miller, geranium, heliotrope, impatiens, osteospermum, petunia, mealycup sage, torenia, verbena, and annual vinca. Flowers you may sow the middle to end of March include ageratum, coleus, dianthus, ornamental millet, African marigold, ornamental pepper, annual phlox, rudbeckia, scarlet sage, and thunbergia.
To get a jump on the herb gardening season, start seeds of basil, parsley, sage, and thyme indoors. Start seeds in flats filled with moistened seed-starting mix. Once the seeds germinate, place the plants under grow lights for 14 hours a day (timers make this easy) and keep soil moist."
Click HERE for a great Skillin's post called the "ABCs of Seed Starting!"
* From Plants Unlimited: "Apply Dormant Oil on Fruit Trees. Keep an eye on your fruit trees and the ground around them. When the snow has melted on the ground around each tree and before the tree's buds swell and turn plump, clean old leaves and debris from around the tree. Then, spray the trees with an insecticidal oil. Dormant oil is a highly refined petroleum oil used primarily to control scale insects and the overwintering eggs of red spider mites and aphids. It is diluted with water prior to spraying. The oil coating suffocates these pests as well as their eggs. Insects cannot become resistant to it.
Dormant oil should be applied to fruit trees in early spring while they are dormant but just prior to bud swell. A dormant oil spray one week before bud break is most effective. The entire tree should be covered with a layer of the oil and spray the ground immediately around the trunk to kill any overwintering insects or diseases that may have overwintered on plant debris or grass."
* From Plants Unlimited: Plant a Rain Garden!
What is a rain garden? A rain garden is a shallow depression that is planted with deep-rooted native plants and grasses. The garden should be positioned near a runoff source like a downspout, driveway or sump pump to capture rainwater runoff and stop the water from reaching the sewer system. Rain gardens can cut down on the amount of pollution reaching creeks and streams by up to 30%.
"Why plant a rain garden?" It helps keep clean, fresh rainwater out of the sewer system and you are doing your part to reduce pollution and preserve our water systems.Native plants are recommended for rain gardens because they generally do not require fertilizer and are more tolerant of one’s local climate, soil, and water conditions, and attract local wildlife such as native birds. The plants — a selection of wetland edge vegetation, such as wildflowers, sedges, rushes, ferns, shrubs and small trees — take up excess water flowing into the rain garden. Water filters through soil layers before entering the groundwater system.
Contact us at skillins@maine.rr.com with any questions!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 20, 2012
Monday, March 12, 2012
March (Mid March) Garden Talks
Hello again,
Mid March is here already! The Portland Flower Show is just past. What a great show--much hard work went into it and we saw many happy faces there!
I would be remiss if I did not point out that the Pray Hardscapes/Skillin's booth won The Lyle Littlefield Commemorative Award for the garden that best introduces new or under-used woody plants. Also we won The Roger Luce Award for the garden that best utilizes new or underused herbaceous plants. Congrats also to our friends at Jaiden Landscaping for winning Best of Show! See more details about the Portland Flower Show right HERE!
Thanks to all the customers who visited Skillin's on their way to or from the Show. The Portland Flower Show really gets people "revved up" for the coming Spring gardening season. And as my uncle John Skillin used to say about this time of year for us gardeners: "It is getting to be our time."
Speaking of "our time", our Skillin's Open Houses are coming fast now! This Friday, Saturday and Sunday March 16, 17 and 18 at Skillin's Falmouth and next Friday and Saturday, March 24 and 25 at Skillin's Brunswick and Cumberland! Click HERE for our Open House Specials! Come see our good friends, the Maine Orchid Society at Skillin's Falmouth on March 17 and March 18. Also we have a good series of classes those days and you can see all about them and more classes right HERE!
It is time to bring you all a few Gardening Tips. What mild weather we have been having in Skillin's Country. Some areas still have snow but much of the snow is gone. It really feels like an early Spring is upon us!
*For the most part it is still too early to walk much on the lawn or garden area because it is still quite wet. Walking too much on mushy soil will actually compact that soil and take some of the natural vitality away from the earth under your foot prints. So for now resist the urge to tread on wet soil! Soil that is dry enough to walk on will feel firm underneath or spring back quickly underfoot.
*Some of you may have started some seedlings already. Some plants (peppers, celery, greens of all types, perennials) can and should be started by now. Many vegetable crops (tomatos, vine crops like cukes, squashes, watermelons) should not be started for a few weeks yet. If you have started some seedlings, it will soon be time to do some "thinning" of seedlings. As contrary as it seems to be, thinning seedlings is important so the "survivors" can grow stronger with more room and more light! Our friends at Gardeners Supply recently gave some good thinning advice:
"Nobody likes to thin seedlings. It's fussy work, and always hard to decide which ones to save and which to toss. Here's and easier way: When the first true leaves appear, use a scissors to snip off the extra seedlings at the soil line. You'll be left with only as many seedlings as you need.
Don't seed too thickly. Two to three seeds per pot is sufficient.
Some gardeners carefully separate the seedlings and replant the extras in other pots. Thrifty, yes, but it's easy to damage the tiny plants. If you decide to transplant any of the seedlings, loosen them carefully from the soil, using a table knife. When handling the seedlings, grasp them by their leaves or roots; avoid holding the stems, which can be damaged easily.
If you're thinning a crop of lettuce seedlings, you can actually add the tiny thinnings to your next salad. "
*One outside job that can be done is to shovel any snow off your raised beds. Give the soil a better chance to warm up faster by getting that snow off! Let the soil dry out some. This weekend or next week if you have the chance sprinkle some good natural garden fertilizer on the beds (think Garden Tone by Espoma--sold right here at Skillin's!) and gently hoe the Garden Tone into the soil. You never know with some good sun you could easily be planting peas or spinach or other greens into those raised beds for a good early crop!
*If you can get to them now is a last window to prune your apple or other fruit trees. Also you could prune to shape some summer flowering shrubs like spirea, potentilla, rose bushes and butterfly bushes. Stay away from Spring flowering shrubs like lilacs, rhododendrons and forsythia. You will just be pruning off branches that will be blossoming in a few short weeks. Although you can prune forsythia and flowering crabs just a little bit for vases indoors. Cut a few branches of forsythia or flowering crabtrees, bring them indoors in a good sized vase and soon you will have flowers indoors!
*Resist uncovering any perennials right now! Most of my perennials are just covered a little by balsam fir tips I laid down in December. In a couple of spots the perennials are starting to grow underneath the balsam. Do not take off any mulch yet from your perennials. I am usually later than some but I do not uncover my perennials until late March (around March 25 at the earliest). The ground will slowly warm through the mulch and the mulch will protect the soil from freezing and thawing during the earliest days of Spring in Skillin's Country. In many cases I will pull only some of the mulch and then take the rest off in early April.
*This is a repeat from earlier in the month but do clean out the wet bird food from your bird feeders. Our plentiful moisture of the last few weeks left my feeders (no, wait my bird's feeders) with some wet food. Birds do not prefer wet food and uneaten wet food can mildew easily! Keep the food dry and our feathered friends will be happier (and more loyal if you know what I mean!)
*Don't forget your houseplants. There is more light in Skillin's Country and your plants will be growing more! So water thoroughly and slowly when you do water. Let lots of excess water gush out of the bottom of the pot and drain away. Then water again only when the soil is dry. Begin feeding your plants again--we have lots of great all natural options like Dynamite, Organica's Plant Tablets or Neptune's Harvest Fish and Seaweed fertilizer. (I recommend any of them!)
*We have loads of Spring flowering bulbs available for you and NOW is a great time to get tuberous begonias and dahlias started indoors. Use all natural Bar Harbor Blend by Coast of Maine, peat pots (so you can submerge them into larger pots or outdoor soil later) and place them in the sun. You will get WEEKS more flowering out of these gorgeous plants! We have the BEST bulb selection in Maine!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 12, 2012
Mid March is here already! The Portland Flower Show is just past. What a great show--much hard work went into it and we saw many happy faces there!
I would be remiss if I did not point out that the Pray Hardscapes/Skillin's booth won The Lyle Littlefield Commemorative Award for the garden that best introduces new or under-used woody plants. Also we won The Roger Luce Award for the garden that best utilizes new or underused herbaceous plants. Congrats also to our friends at Jaiden Landscaping for winning Best of Show! See more details about the Portland Flower Show right HERE!
Thanks to all the customers who visited Skillin's on their way to or from the Show. The Portland Flower Show really gets people "revved up" for the coming Spring gardening season. And as my uncle John Skillin used to say about this time of year for us gardeners: "It is getting to be our time."
Speaking of "our time", our Skillin's Open Houses are coming fast now! This Friday, Saturday and Sunday March 16, 17 and 18 at Skillin's Falmouth and next Friday and Saturday, March 24 and 25 at Skillin's Brunswick and Cumberland! Click HERE for our Open House Specials! Come see our good friends, the Maine Orchid Society at Skillin's Falmouth on March 17 and March 18. Also we have a good series of classes those days and you can see all about them and more classes right HERE!
It is time to bring you all a few Gardening Tips. What mild weather we have been having in Skillin's Country. Some areas still have snow but much of the snow is gone. It really feels like an early Spring is upon us!
*For the most part it is still too early to walk much on the lawn or garden area because it is still quite wet. Walking too much on mushy soil will actually compact that soil and take some of the natural vitality away from the earth under your foot prints. So for now resist the urge to tread on wet soil! Soil that is dry enough to walk on will feel firm underneath or spring back quickly underfoot.
*Some of you may have started some seedlings already. Some plants (peppers, celery, greens of all types, perennials) can and should be started by now. Many vegetable crops (tomatos, vine crops like cukes, squashes, watermelons) should not be started for a few weeks yet. If you have started some seedlings, it will soon be time to do some "thinning" of seedlings. As contrary as it seems to be, thinning seedlings is important so the "survivors" can grow stronger with more room and more light! Our friends at Gardeners Supply recently gave some good thinning advice:
"Nobody likes to thin seedlings. It's fussy work, and always hard to decide which ones to save and which to toss. Here's and easier way: When the first true leaves appear, use a scissors to snip off the extra seedlings at the soil line. You'll be left with only as many seedlings as you need.
Don't seed too thickly. Two to three seeds per pot is sufficient.
Some gardeners carefully separate the seedlings and replant the extras in other pots. Thrifty, yes, but it's easy to damage the tiny plants. If you decide to transplant any of the seedlings, loosen them carefully from the soil, using a table knife. When handling the seedlings, grasp them by their leaves or roots; avoid holding the stems, which can be damaged easily.
If you're thinning a crop of lettuce seedlings, you can actually add the tiny thinnings to your next salad. "
*One outside job that can be done is to shovel any snow off your raised beds. Give the soil a better chance to warm up faster by getting that snow off! Let the soil dry out some. This weekend or next week if you have the chance sprinkle some good natural garden fertilizer on the beds (think Garden Tone by Espoma--sold right here at Skillin's!) and gently hoe the Garden Tone into the soil. You never know with some good sun you could easily be planting peas or spinach or other greens into those raised beds for a good early crop!
*If you can get to them now is a last window to prune your apple or other fruit trees. Also you could prune to shape some summer flowering shrubs like spirea, potentilla, rose bushes and butterfly bushes. Stay away from Spring flowering shrubs like lilacs, rhododendrons and forsythia. You will just be pruning off branches that will be blossoming in a few short weeks. Although you can prune forsythia and flowering crabs just a little bit for vases indoors. Cut a few branches of forsythia or flowering crabtrees, bring them indoors in a good sized vase and soon you will have flowers indoors!
*Resist uncovering any perennials right now! Most of my perennials are just covered a little by balsam fir tips I laid down in December. In a couple of spots the perennials are starting to grow underneath the balsam. Do not take off any mulch yet from your perennials. I am usually later than some but I do not uncover my perennials until late March (around March 25 at the earliest). The ground will slowly warm through the mulch and the mulch will protect the soil from freezing and thawing during the earliest days of Spring in Skillin's Country. In many cases I will pull only some of the mulch and then take the rest off in early April.
*This is a repeat from earlier in the month but do clean out the wet bird food from your bird feeders. Our plentiful moisture of the last few weeks left my feeders (no, wait my bird's feeders) with some wet food. Birds do not prefer wet food and uneaten wet food can mildew easily! Keep the food dry and our feathered friends will be happier (and more loyal if you know what I mean!)
*Don't forget your houseplants. There is more light in Skillin's Country and your plants will be growing more! So water thoroughly and slowly when you do water. Let lots of excess water gush out of the bottom of the pot and drain away. Then water again only when the soil is dry. Begin feeding your plants again--we have lots of great all natural options like Dynamite, Organica's Plant Tablets or Neptune's Harvest Fish and Seaweed fertilizer. (I recommend any of them!)
*We have loads of Spring flowering bulbs available for you and NOW is a great time to get tuberous begonias and dahlias started indoors. Use all natural Bar Harbor Blend by Coast of Maine, peat pots (so you can submerge them into larger pots or outdoor soil later) and place them in the sun. You will get WEEKS more flowering out of these gorgeous plants! We have the BEST bulb selection in Maine!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 12, 2012
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Plants for a Pergola
Hello again,
Our gardening friends at Horticulture Magazine frequently send out some nice garden tips. And a quick post called Plants for a Pergola caught my eye today.
The Horticulture folks talk about a couple of native vines that are less invasive than some of their non native counterparts: American Wisteria and the Trumpet Honeysuckle.
Check out the post for an idea about what to grow on a pergola, or arbor or trellis!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 8, 2012
Our gardening friends at Horticulture Magazine frequently send out some nice garden tips. And a quick post called Plants for a Pergola caught my eye today.
 |
| The native Trumpet Honeysuckle |
The Horticulture folks talk about a couple of native vines that are less invasive than some of their non native counterparts: American Wisteria and the Trumpet Honeysuckle.
Check out the post for an idea about what to grow on a pergola, or arbor or trellis!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 8, 2012
Fruit Tree Care
Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club (http://www.paulparent.com/) sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM. Paul recently sent this article out called Fruit Tree Care (I have added a few comments in italics) and here it is:
"It is spring and now time to get outside and begin to work on the fruit trees. Start by cleaning them of any broken branches due to the snow and ice. Make a nice clean cut with pruners or a sharp saw. When removing branches from the tree, be sure to make the cuts at a slight angle so water will roll off the branch and not sit on it, causing rot. If you are removing a branch attached to the main trunk, cut the branch about a foot from the trunk first. That way if the branch should break it will not tear the bark of the tree. Once you remove the branch from the tree, use a sharp saw and cut the spur that remains as close as possible to the main trunk. The tree will heal itself much faster that way.
If you leave a spur 2 to 6 inches long on the trunk, it will rot and the decay will move into the main trunk, causing you problems later. When you make a flush cut on the trunk or branch, the tree can cover it over with a ring of callus in just a year or two. At this time of the year, the branches are full of flower buds so cut the tip branches 2 to 3 feet long and place them in a vase of water and they will flower in your home.
Remove any branches at the base of the tree, as these branches are "suckers," stealing energy from the tree. Look for any branches that crisscross and rub together. Remove the less important branch, or where they rub together the bark will wear off and create an entry point for insects or disease to enter the plant. Remove any branches that grow straight up without side shoots on them. These are "water sprouts" and will not produce fruit. A great book for the beginner or seasoned gardener is The Back Yard Orchardist by Stella Otto. All your questions on fruit tree care will be answered in this book.
The tree is cleaned and ready to grow, so let us work on insect and disease problems. At this time of the year, you can eliminate many disease problems if you can spray the trees with a copper fungicide spray or lime sulfate fungicide. When applied at this time of the year, these products will kill disease spores before they have a chance to get active--"preventive medicine."To control Insects before the eggs hatch use a horticultural oil or "all season oil." You can combine both of these products in the same sprayer and apply at the same time. Apply when temperatures are going to be above 40 degrees that day and there is no rain in the forecast. This spraying must be done before the flower buds open and the buds are still tightly closed.
Now you need an indicator on the tree to tell you when the bugs arrive so you can begin your bi-weekly spraying program. When I was in college at University of Massachusetts, Amherst, my Orchard Care class was chosen to help our professor with his idea that helped earned him his doctorate. Knowing when to start spraying the trees to control insects will make your spray program more effective and you will not have to waste pesticides applied too early.
Thanks Paul!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 8, 2012
Tuesday, March 6, 2012
Spring 2012 Open House Specials
Special Savings!
Garden Center
Gloves 30% off
Fox Farm Soils and Fertilizers 20% off
Seed Starting Supplies 20% off
Gro Lights 20% off
Gro Lights 20% off
Earth Boxes Save $10.00
Plant Containers and Saucers 20% off
All Spring Bulbs 20% off
All Spring Bulbs 20% off
Greenhouse
Buy one get one free 8” Hanging Foliage plants Sku # 660091 $14.99
African Violets Save $2 reg 4.99 sale 2.99
4” Zonal Geraniums buy 3 receive 30% off
Herbs buy 3 receive 30% off
6” Orchids reg 36.99 sale 29.99 save $7
Nursery
Spring Bonds 37.50
3” Heather $3.99 reg price, sale price $3.19 ea
Floral and Gift
Colonial Candle buy 1 box receive 10% off and 2 boxes receive 20% off
Vance Kitira Candles 20% Off
Vance Kitira Candles 20% Off
Jewelery 20% Off
Caspari 20% Off
Books 30% Off
Webkinz 20% Off
Door Mats and Rugs 20% Off
Fresh Market Bouquets 10.99
Carnation .79
Fresh cut Daffodil Bunches 3.99
KIDS free Carnation and coupon for their choice one packet of seeds
Door Prizes
Arrangement a month for 6 months
3 Perennials
2 Spring Bonds
4” Orchid
Herb Planter
1 hour Landscape Design Consultation
Earth Box, Bar Harbor Potting Soil & 3 Packets of Vegetable seeds
$500 Gift Certificate (1 Winner)
$250 Gift Certificate (2 Winners)
Sunday, March 4, 2012
Tips for a Fragrant Garden
Hello again,
The good folks at Horticulture Magazine recently sent out a nice post called Tips for a Fragrant Garden.
They list many plants that are easily obtained that will add a nice scent, a nice fragrance to your world at home. One of my favorite choices is Heliotrope Marine Blue. I highly recommend it!
Here is the link to The Fragrant Garden.
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 4, 2012
The good folks at Horticulture Magazine recently sent out a nice post called Tips for a Fragrant Garden.
They list many plants that are easily obtained that will add a nice scent, a nice fragrance to your world at home. One of my favorite choices is Heliotrope Marine Blue. I highly recommend it!
 |
| The Heliotrope Marine Blue--vanilla scented and a nice shade of purple/blue. This plant is a container favorite of mine in the summer--I keep it near our busy front entrance at my home and really love the vanilla scent! |
Here is the link to The Fragrant Garden.
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 4, 2012
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