This question posed by Customer Jan is among the most asked this time of year here at Skillin's:
"I have three Amaryllis flowering at the moment, and know there is a method to hold them over from year to year and get them to re-bloom. Can you share how that is done?"
Here is my answer:
This is a response to the same question posed to Christian Curless writing for People, Places and Plants magazine (http://www.ppplants.com/) and I thought his answer was superb.
“After the flowers fade on each stalk, cut off the stalk two inches above the top of the bulb. Do NOT cut the leaves. Continue to water the bulb as needed, occasionally adding water soluble fertilizer—organic (like Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed sold right here at Skillin’s) is great—and wait until all risk of frost has passed. Then move the bulb outdoors, initially into a shady spot. Over the course of a week, gradually increase the bulb’s exposure to sunlight until it ends up in a location where it will receive full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day). If the potting mix dries out quickly, move the bulb into a large pot. You can also plant the bulb in the ground. For a potted bulb, add fertilizer every couple of weeks or so.
Toward the end of summer, push the soil away from the bulb to check its size. If it has grown to the size of a grapefruit, it’s time to bring it indoors (many people just the leave the bulb outdoors until after the first frost). Lift the bulb and knock off the soil from the roots, then put it in a cool, dark, dry place. Give the bulb a two month rest; mark your calendar so you don’t forget. Then cut the foliage down to the neck, trim the roots so they’ll fit into a pot—don’t remove them entirely—and plant the bulb again in a pot of suitable size. If the bulb has stored up enough energy during the summer, it will bloom again in about two months.”
“After the flowers fade on each stalk, cut off the stalk two inches above the top of the bulb. Do NOT cut the leaves. Continue to water the bulb as needed, occasionally adding water soluble fertilizer—organic (like Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed sold right here at Skillin’s) is great—and wait until all risk of frost has passed. Then move the bulb outdoors, initially into a shady spot. Over the course of a week, gradually increase the bulb’s exposure to sunlight until it ends up in a location where it will receive full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day). If the potting mix dries out quickly, move the bulb into a large pot. You can also plant the bulb in the ground. For a potted bulb, add fertilizer every couple of weeks or so.
Toward the end of summer, push the soil away from the bulb to check its size. If it has grown to the size of a grapefruit, it’s time to bring it indoors (many people just the leave the bulb outdoors until after the first frost). Lift the bulb and knock off the soil from the roots, then put it in a cool, dark, dry place. Give the bulb a two month rest; mark your calendar so you don’t forget. Then cut the foliage down to the neck, trim the roots so they’ll fit into a pot—don’t remove them entirely—and plant the bulb again in a pot of suitable size. If the bulb has stored up enough energy during the summer, it will bloom again in about two months.”
Send us any gardening questions you may have to info@skillins.com and we will help you out!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 7, 2008
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