Showing posts with label Coast of Maine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Coast of Maine. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Garden Talks July 8--Good Weeding Tips

Hello again,

The folks at Horticulture Magazine (http://www.hortmag.com/) recently published a no nonsense list of tips about "Best Ways to Weed". Weeds are going crazy but with all this moisture they are coming out of the ground quite easily. I know, I know none of us have time to weed. BUT, take a little time and weed in small bunches. Look back constantly at how good the weeded area looks and you will be motivated to do just a little bit more. Here are the suggestions from http://www.hortmag.com/:


weed on a regular basis
remove the entire weed, including all roots
weed when the soil is dry. It is easier to lift the roots.
weed while the weeds are young
do not disturb the soil because that brings weed seeds to the surface. Adopt a “no-till” system: only dig where you will plant something; otherwise do not move the soil.
hand weeding is most effective because it causes least disturbance to other plants and you can be sure to get the whole plant
lay mulch to suppress weed growth. remove weeds first or else they too get the other benefits of mulch: regular soil temperature and less water loss from soil
grow a thick groundcover that will suppress weeds
choose plants with spreading foliage that will cast shade over the surrounding soil, discouraging weeds
Plants that suppress weeds? Any plant that "canopies" make great weed suppressors. Think daylilies, perennial geraniums and hosta for shady spots. There are plenty of others too, stop by and see us for suggestions!
Questions? Drop us a question at the comment section OR info@skillins.com!
Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
July 9, 2009
Plants

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Garden Talks June 24--Containers, Rhodys, Kelp Booster

(I talk about these lovely gazanias below!)


Hello again,

Here are some recent customer questions posed to us at info@skillins.com!



Question from customer MM: "I was wondering if it is too late to start container gardening ? If not what types of plants should I choose from?"



Answer: It is NOT too late to start container gardening.

We have some good sized tomatoe plants that would fit the bill as well as cucumbers and lettuces that grow awesome in containers. I have just planted all of these in large containers in just the last couple of days.

I would definitely recommend using the Bar Harbor Blend by Coast of Maine as your potting soil. It is a top quality composted mix that works extremely well. To help catch up I would also recommend several handfuls of all natural Garden Tone by Espoma or Plant Booster Plus by Organica. These natural fertilizers will work with that top quality soil to naturally “rev up” your plants and will provide much needed calcium which results in top quality fruit.



Question from customer SB: I wonder if you could tell me what I need to do to get my Rhododendron to fill out at the bottom. They are both very leggy and no foliage at the bottom. They are over 30 years old but I don't want to get rid of them as my father planted them for me when we built the house. I have used Tree tone on them and I have tried to cut them back a lot as they are getting too tall. My Dad used to put holes around the base and fill them with fertilizer but I am not sure how much to use. Would you have any suggestions as to how I can get them to have some foliage toward the bottom branches. Also should I be pruning them now or wait.



Answer: Generally speaking now is a fine time to prune your rhododendron. Most have just flowered and as such have not formed their flower buds for next year. The key is to prune the top portions to force growth to come out along the bottom. This growth will take time. I pruned some old rhodys I have that were getting too leggy in June 2007. I gave them an aggressive pruning. They did not fill out much in 2008 but are coming along nicely on the bottom in 2009.

Holly Tone is probably the preferred fertilizer although Tree Tone is not a bad choice at all. Both are non burning so it is hard to over fertilize. I would make holes around 2 to 3” deep about 6” to 12” within the drip line of your rhody and fill each hole with the Holly Tone. It is a good technique but requires some bending over and is time consuming. Space your holes about a foot apart or so. 2 such feedings per year are optimal.



Speaking of containers, I just recently planted one of my all time favorite annuals, the Gazania (I love the bright oranges, reds, yellows and whites of the Gazoo mix, see the picture at the top of this post) into a container. I place this container in the hot blazing sun after I have filled the pot with Bar Harbor blend, Plant Booster Plus by Organica and 3 flats of gazanias. When the sun comes out (take heart it will!) my pot will be ablaze with color. Gazanias are also great to plant in the ground; anywhere where there is blazing sun!

NOW is the time to apply Kelp Booster by Organica to your lawn. Kelp is one of the best natural "additives" we can apply to our soil as most of the time our soil is starving for calcium. Kelp Booster is Step 2 of Organica's Four Step All Natural Lawn Program. Calcium is key for adding to and maintaining of our plant's vigor. Plus the Kelp Booster as all the Organica products do contain valuable microbes for the soil that our plant's roots reside in. Click http://organicatechnologies.com/consumer4stepnaturallawn.asp for more information about this outstanding program sold right here at Skillin's!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
June 24, 2009

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Garden Talks May 17--Peas, frost?

Hello again,

Gardening is happening in Skillin's Country where we are all about teaching you to Grow A Greener Garden!

All this rain this AM reminds me of why the peas I planted in some large tubs barely sprouted and then collapsed. Shortly after I planted them we received rains of only what I can describe a "Biblical Nature". Much rain and I believe the soil in my containers stayed too wet for too long and probably rotted the seed.

I use a mix of Bar Harbor Blend potting soil and my own compost in my containers. I must admit that the potting medium in these two containers is probably about 2/3 compost. I believe that ratio is too heavy and I should have more Bar Harbor and less compost. What I am recommending to you is that I know your own compost is cheaper than the Bar Harbor mix BUT if it is "heavier" or more dense in composition than the top quality Bar Harbor then make sure your ratio is no more than 50% compost!

Frost alert? As the rainy weather clears out and clearer weather arrives our temps are going to get cooler tonight and tomorrow night. Is frost a possibility? I think it is in western and northern areas of Skillin's Country. (That is you if you live more than a few miles away from the coast or north of Brunswick). If you have tender material outdoors then be prepared to put a bed sheet--we also sell easy to use Frost Blankets--over your material to keep any frost particles away from tender growth. Bring in any potted material OR window boxes with tender young growth to protect it for the night. It is better to be safe than sorry--especially away from the coast or urban area of Portland. Drop us a question at info@skillins.com or 1-800-244-3860 if we can help you more!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
May 17, 2009

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Vegetable Container Gardening

Vegetables can safely, easily and efficiently be grown in almost any container or plant pot that will hold the soil needed to grow the plant. I have successfully grown vegetables in “pots” for several years. I love to garden the “traditional way” but frankly I work many, many hours, I have a family and all of life’s errands to run. I do not have time to maintain a successful large vegetable garden at this point in my life.

BUT I want to grow vegetables because I love and value the fresh taste of my favorite home grown veggies, I love “local” pursuits and you can’t get any more local than growing your own food, I love to be outdoors in the summer and finally I do love to do something that connects me with my own childhood AND some of the activities my parents and grandparents did because they really kind of needed to grow some of their own food

The first and absolute most important need for successful vegetable container gardening is clearly sun. Most vegetables need FULL SUN to grow well and by full sun I mean at least 6 hours (preferably more) of full sun each day. One of the benefits of container gardening is that you can generally easily move your containers from one spot to another so that they get their full day of sun.

The second need is SPACE. Less (plants) will mean more (harvest)! By the end of the growing season one plant of many of the vegetable varieties will have grown thoroughly into all most any pot you can conceive. For best growth for instance one tomato plant of almost any variety should be given a home in about a 12” or more pot. By the end of the season the roots of the plant will almost fill the pot.

Space is also needed to counter overcrowding that inhibits light and air circulation. Many vegetables are prone to disease and leaf spotting if their foliage does not get enough air circulation. To compound problems, rain or overhead watering of crowded plants means the leaves can stay too wet too long in a sunny hot environment and this “rain forest scenario” can be a perfect incubator for leaf and fruit spot and disease. So, good space that allows for light and air circulation is important.

I would definitely recommend Bar Harbor Blend Potting Soil by Coast of Maine as THE SOIL of choice for containers. It is locally produced and we need to use all the local products we can BUT good news--it is not expensive AND it is the BEST quality potting soil I have ever used. I highly recommend it. Also I highly recommend aggressively using the Fish and Seaweed fertilizer (Neptune’s Harvest brand is my favorite—produced in northern Massachusetts, only 100 miles from here) when you water the containers early on in the season. This gets your plants off to a fast start NATURALLY and strengthens the roots for a good flowering or vegetable season. This is still Maine and still a short season so I don't think you can fertilize your containers too much as long as you do it naturally. Finally, I deposit at least two Plant Tablets by Organica into each container every month. Once I stop using the Fish and Seaweed food (after the first month) the broken down Plant Tablets give the roots of the plant all kinds of food and good natural bacteria.I grew some very nice vegetables this season in my containers. Full sun is needed and I was able to place some on the top of my paved driveway so my fall (or second) plantings still stayed warm for awhile. I would make sure your FALL CONTAINERS (use peas, even beans, carrots really try anything) should be planted by seed by the first week of August. The air gets pretty cold in September even when the containers are on the warm pavement so it is nice to have the plants pretty well grown by then.

DRAINAGE is very important; make sure your containers have at least one hole in the bottom (if one hole about 1” in diameter) to let excess water out. By the middle to end of the season your containers may need daily waterings to accommodate all the root growth. When you do water really soak your containers so the roots get plenty of water; but at this point there should be all kinds of water gushing out of the bottom of the pot.

How about vegetables that like to “run” or send vines out? I grew some great pickle sized cucumbers last summer by planting just one seedling in a 16” pot and then plunging a metal 6’ trellis behind my pot. For a few weeks, we got some nice pickle sized cukes (which I think make a great size for eating!). Want more cukes? Plant another pot and set up another trellis! Twice as many pots gives you twice as many cukes! Easy math and easy to do!

For tomatoes try the Topsy Turvy Tomato planter and hang your tomatoes upside down off a Shepherd’s Hook in the sun! Check out http://www.topsyturvys.com/ for how this neat product works! (We sell the Topsy Turvy right here at Skillin’s!) Or plant a patio tomato or something yummy like a Sun Gold tomato in a large pot with a tomato spiral hammered through the soil and through the hole in the bottom of the pot down into the ground. Your pot is anchored by the Tomato Spiral AND you don’t have to tie tomatoes to the Tomato Spiral. Just keep the tomato coming up straight through the spiral!

As I write this it is still early Spring. Almost all vegetables can be started indoors now ( I love the biodegradable Cow Pots that we sell here at Skillin’s for early starting of plants. The Cow Pots are EASILY transplantable into large summer pots). This early start will mean bigger plants and a better harvest earlier. Have some favorites? Start some now indoors and THEN grow a second crop in a few weeks to “stage” or “time” a longer harvest.

One of our favorite products is the Earth Box! The Earth Box is a growing system within a wide pot. They are easy to move (with wheels) and optional custom staking systems can be purchased. For more great information on the Earth Box go to http://www.earthbox.com/. We sell the Earth Box here at Skillin’s!

Drop us a note at info@skillins.com or leave a comment at the Comment area below IF you have any more to add about Vegetable Container Gardening!

Mike Skillin (with assistance from David K)
Skillin's Greenhouses
April 15, 2009

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Quoddy Blend Congratulations!

Congrats to the folks at Coast of Maine as the Quoddy Blend (the best garden compost I have ever used) has just gained rigorous OMRI certification as a superior organic gardening product.

Sold at a Skillin's location near you! Brunswick, Cumberland, Falmouth and http://www.skillins.com/!

Monday, December 29, 2008

Azaleas!!




Hello again!







Before we get onto our subject today--flowering indoor azaleas--let me mention a couple of items.

First, I would like to wish you a sincere Happy Holidays message--we hope your Christmas time was restful and well spent with family and friends. Now onto the New Year!

While we are journeying toward 2009, let me say that I just put a healthy dose of water into my Christmas tree stand earlier today. Watering your tree daily is critical to your Christmas tree looking great (and also staying fresh and fire resistant into the New Year.)

We have many items on sale at Skillin's over the holidays. All Christmas items are 50% off (we still have some awesome ornaments!). Bird feeders, food and supplies are 25% off for the time being. Tools including newly arriving snow shovels are 25% off. Webkinz are 25% for the time being. We grew the best poinsettias and azaleas this year and what is left is 50% off. These plants make awesome house plants for the winter.



The florist azalea is one of my very favorite house plants. The flowers are gorgeous almost all winter long and then the plant rewards as a great house plant for the remainder of the year until the plant is ready to flower again.



Many years ago Jim Crockett the founder of Crocketts Indoor Garden wrote about the allure and care of the florist azalea:



"If I had to write a one-sentence summary of azalea care, it would be this: keep them cool, keep them moist, and keep them after they flower. An English gardening magazine once published a photograph of a 150 year old azalea that had been growing in the same pot, regularly fed and trimmed, of course, for 50 years. In Japan, where most evergreen azaleas are native, gardeners regard an azalea of that age as a mere stripling!



The kinds of so-called florist azaleas grown as houseplants are flowering shrubs with small evergreen leaves; their flowers, single or double, are usually white or a shade of pink or red. Yellow and orange azaleas are for the most part deciduous and are generally grown in outdoor gardens. Normally florist azaleas bloom in the spring but plant specialists by altering temperatures are able to bring them into flower at any time of the year. Because of the great demand for flowering plants during the fall, winter, and early spring, the bulk of azaleas are brought into bloom and sold in flower shops between November and May. Given the right care through their rest period, they then resume their normal spring-blossoming schedule. It's the after-blooming care that I like to emphasize because it's entirely possible for the home gardener to keep azaleas growing for many years with an ever-increasing abundance of flowers.



Most people buy azaleas as bud-and-bloom-laden plants just as they are about to flower. While they are in bloom, and in their vegetative period as well, they need a cool, brightly lit spot; an east-facing window with night temperatures about 50 degrees is ideal. The cooler they can be kept the healthier they will be and the longer the flowers will last. (If they are kept in too warm a spot, their growth becomes etoliated, meaning that the leaves are widely spaced along slender stems.) It is vital that the planting medium be kept constantly moist all year.

The critical time in an azalea's life is after the flowers fade. Too many gardeners seem to think that the plants are worthless at this point, and put them out with the Thursday trash. But as I've said, if they're properly attended they'll last for years and even improve with age. The first step in after-flowering care is housekeeping. I go over an entire plant and snip off the dead blossoms and the seed pods. Then I trim back any branches that stray beyond the plant's natural shape, making my cuts down inside the foliage so the cuts do not show. Then I repot the plant into a 1-inch larger pot...(we recommend Coast of Maine's Bar Harbor Blend potting soil for a top quality all natural and affordable potting medium). (We also recommend breaking up some all natural Plant Nutrition Tablets by Organica--also sold right here at Skillin's--for a good long-term fertilizer for your azalea).

Once an azalea's flowers fade, the plant begins a handsome new stage of vegetative growth, and it's then that the foliage takes its turn at showing off. Unlike many flowering plants, the azalea is a beautiful flowering plant during the months when its not in flower.) When this new growth reaches maturity, but before it gets hard and woody, new plants can easily be started from 2 to 3 inch cuttings taken from the tips of the stems.

When summer approaches (can't wait for that!) and the danger of frost is past, I move my azaleas, pots and all, outside to a shady spot....I always try to keep them near a water source to reduce the effort involved in keeping the constantly moist during the blistering days of summer. In the fall when a frost threatens I bring them in and set them in a cool bright windowsill. They're at their best when the nights are in the 40 to 55 degree range and the days no warmer than 68....

Invasions of spider mites are sometimes a problem. The answer to this is good hygiene. Whether the plants are indoors or out, they should be washed weekly, aiming a good strong spray all around the foliage, especially on the undersides of the leaves....

Finally, it's normal for all plants to drop their old leaves, but when they drop the new ones, too, it means trouble. Usually the problem is too little moisture, but too little light will have the same effect. Keep the soil beneath the plants moist at all times, and if this doesn't seem to help, move them to a brighter spot."

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
December 30, 2008







Sunday, October 26, 2008

Garden Talks October 26

Hello again,

I spent some time neatening the yard yesterday and I have a few Garden Talks to say.

I dumped all my beloved vegetable and flower containers yesterday (well all but the Swiss Chard) as the frosts of this past week finally did a number on them. I had a great year with my containers again.

To review, I would definitely recommend Bar Harbor Blend Potting Soil by Coast of Maine as THE soil of choice for containers. It is locally produced and we need to use all the local products we can but good news--it is not expensive AND it is the BEST quality potting soil I have ever used. I highly recommend it. Also I highly recommend aggressively using the Fish and Seaweed fertilizer when you water the containers early on in the season. This gets your plants off to a fast start NATURALLY and strengthens the roots for a good flowering or vegetable season. This is still Maine and still a short season so I don't think you can fertilize your containers too much as long as you do it naturally. Finally, I deposit at least two Plant Tablets by Organica into each container every two months. Once I stop using the Fish and Seawood food (after the first month) the broken down Plant Tablets are giving the roots of the plant all kinds of food and good natural bacteria.

I grew some very nice vegetables this season in my containers. Full sun is needed and I was able to place some on the top of my paved driveway so my fall plantings still stayed warm for awhile. I would make sure your fall containers (use peas, even beans, carrots really try anything) should be planted by seed by the first week of August. The air gets pretty cold in Spetember even when the containers are on the warm pavement.

I still have some very nice Red Sails lettuce and broccoli that I planted (as seedlings, not seeds) on a warm Labor Day afternoon. These plants face southeast and it got pretty warm the first few days so they "flagged" from the heat the first few days but as I said the plants are gorgeous now and I still think I will get some broccoli. Red Sails is a leaf lettuce and I have been cutting that for weeks now. Make a note in your Journal--I highly recommend Red Sails lettuce early this coming year (think April) and also late (think September).

I mowed my lawn short and ground a few leaves (great organic matter for your lawn) in the process. I kept my lawn long this year because I wanted the longer blades of grass to help "shade out" prospective weeds. I think that approach worked well and I will do that again next year. Yesterday I knocked my lawn mower down a notch closer to the ground so I got a shorter cut. I will do this again in another week or ten days to keep the lawn more closely cropped as we draw closer to winter (better air circulation in colder and wetter weather is a good thing) and also to grind a few more leaves into the ground. I used to think that grinding leaves in the lawn was not a good thing; that those leaves would contribute to thatch (thick layerings of built up material that would keep air and water from the ground). But this was before I started to use natural fertilizers on the lawn several years ago. Now all the natural ingredients in natural fertlilizers help break down organic matter like the ground up leaves to improve the cell structure and microbial matter in the soil. Better soil, deeper roots and a naturally greener and stronger lawn.

Want a great plant that yields nutrituous fruit and gives great colored foliage in the fall? Blueberries! The foliage in my blueberries is gorgeous right now. Beautiful! Blueberries are my favorite fruit and I really appreciate the orangy red foliage right now!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
October 26, 2008