Daffodils, Narcissus and Jonquils

Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club (http://www.paulparent.com/) sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM. Paul recently sent this article out called "Daffodils, Narcissus and Jonquils" (I occasionally add a few comments in italics) and here it is:

"Have you ever heard the story of how the narcissus got its name? A long time ago, Greek mythology stories and writing told the story of Narcissus, the young son of a Greek god, who was led to believe by his father that a long and happy life would be his if he never gazed upon his own features. By chance, Narcissus saw his own reflection in a quiet pool of water and fell in love with his own reflection. Because of this, Narcissus soon withered away; at the spot where he died, beautiful nodding flowers sprang up and were named after him.


Greek stories also tell of the narcotic perfume smell of the flower and how it was used to stupefy those who were to be punished for crimes committed. Other writers said that the fragrance of the flower led to hallucinations and madness. The beauty of the flower has led many gardeners to madness, but the madness is about the beauty of the flower in their gardens. Judge for yourself--plant daffodils in your garden this fall and enjoy the madness in the spring.

In the early days of daffodils, they were called "Lent lilies," as these flower bulbs bloomed naturally in the garden during the Lenten holidays. Today's Easter lily blooms naturally during late June; the Easter lily is forced into bloom by your local florist to celebrate the holiday. Another name given to the daffodil was "chalice flower," because of the shape of the corona or trumpet. Look at the narcissus trumpet--it does resemble the shape of the cup or chalice used to hold the sacramental wine.

The jonquil is a member of the amaryllis family. If you look at writings from Homer and Sophocles hundreds of years ago, you will see how popular they were back then. You may be wondering why I am using three different names for this bulb--let me tell you. Daffodil is the common name for the entire family; narcissus is the Latin or botanical name. The name "jonquil" was given to hybrids that were developed from this family; it means a sweetly scented, rich, yellow species of Narcissus having a slender rounded flower stem and rush-like leaves--hybrids. So no matter what you call them in your garden you are right, no matter what name you use.

Daffodils were wildflowers many years ago, like most of the flowers we have in our gardens today. The Dutch gardeners loved them so much that they began to cross them together to develop new flower strains, and their popularity grew and grew. Dutch records show that in 1548, there were only 24 different types of daffodils, in 1629, the numbers grew to 90 and by 1948, they had grown to almost 8,000 varieties. Today there are over 10,000 varieties and new ones each year.

In Holland today there are only two unique areas where daffodils are grown commercially. One area is 25 square miles in area and concentrated, while the second area is spread out over the country side and not much larger than the major bulb growing area totaling just 50 square miles of soil where they can be grown for exporting.

As the love for these bulbs grew, the Dutch government quickly realized that it would have to act to protect the quality of these bulbs and keep them insect and disease free if the industry was to prosper. The growers and the government together set up guidelines to protect this valuable crop. Strict rules were imposed to keep the Dutch bulb industry safe and strong. Today, no bulb can leave Holland until they are guaranteed to flower in your garden, and are certified insect and disease free.

Narcissus bulbs must be planted in a soil that is well drained and rich in organic matter if you want them to re-bloom for several years to come. Wet soil with standing water or soil that contains clay will kill the bulb during the first winter in the ground, because wet soil will rot the delicate roots. Animal manure or, better still, compost is the best soil conditioner when planting. (We recommend Bulb Tone by Espoma as the best all around planting fertilizer for bulbs).

If your soil is on the sandy side, be sure to add Soil Moist Granules to help hold moisture around the bulbs during the summer time. When planting, select a location with as much sun as possible or plant under trees that leaf out after the flower fades to allow the foliage to make and replace the energy it takes to make new flower buds for next year. If planting under evergreens, plant near the drip line or tips of the branches to insure the bulb foliage gets some sun.

Bulbs need to be fertilized spring and fall for the best flowers every year. Apply Bulb-Tone fertilizer around the foliage while it is in bloom while you remember to care for the plant. Also NEVER, use bone meal as a fertilizer around outdoor bulbs as it will draw animals to the garden--and they will dig up the garden looking for possible bones left there as their food.

It is also important to remove the flowers as they fade to prevent the plant from making useless seed that will never develop properly in your garden. This way all the energy made by the plant is used by the plant for next year's growth and not wasted on unusable seeds. Use a plastic golf tee to mark the bulb cluster in your garden so you will know where to apply the fertilizer in the fall in the fall; weather will flake the paint off wooden tees.

Always plant in groups and never in straight lines as it will be easier to plant annuals around them as the daffodil foliage begins to fade. (Excellent advice!) Remove the foliage to the ground ONLY when the foliage begins to turn yellow! Plant bulbs with a covering of conditioned soil that covers the bulb with twice as much soil as the bulb is high. Example: daffodil bulbs are 3 inches tall so you must dig a hole 9 inches deep! Three inches for the bulb and six inches of soil to cover it. I advise you use Bark Mulch over them for added winter protection.

If you are planting them as wildflowers and are naturalizing them, the grass will do the same as mulch to protect them. If you are mowing this area, be sure the foliage has begun to die back before cutting and NEVER use a lawn weed control product to control weeds or the bulbs will also be killed. When planting narcissus, be sure to plant the bulb with the pointed part of the bulb facing UP. Plant bulbs in groups of 5 to 7 bulbs for the best show of color; also, if the weather gets stormy, they will be able to brace each other from the wind and rain.

Check with your local garden center for information on blooming time so you can plant several types that will bloom at staggered times in your garden. Also consider height of flowers, shape of flower, flower color combinations--and look for unique characteristics of the plant. Remember daffodils are NOT eaten by animals of any type, so do not worry about voles this winter and rabbits and deer in the spring when they are in bloom. Enjoy and plant now." (We have got many awesome varieties here at Skillin's for you!)

Paul Parent Garden Club
October 2012

Hyacinths

Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club (http://www.paulparent.com/) sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM. Paul recently sent this article out called "Hyacinths" (I occasionally add a few comments in italics) and here it is:

"When I think of fragrance in the garden, there is no better flower than the hyacinth! When in bloom, the flower produce a perfume that will fill the air around the garden with unforgettable fragrance that will bring you on your knees to take deep breaths of its intoxicating fragrance. The original hyacinth is a wild flower that grows all over eastern Mediterranean, in Asia and from Syria to Persia, where it stills blooms wild.

The Dutch took this wild flower to their breeding fields in 1562, and began to hybridize the plant to what you see today. Today, this plant is known as the Dutch hyacinth all over the world. In the early eighteenth century, the plant breeders had developed about 50 varieties, but today there are about 2,000 varieties available and more coming every year. Madame de Pompadour recommended to Louis XV extensive hyacinth plantings for his palace garden. At the time each bulb sold for $500.00--I like today's prices much better.

A well-known Grecian myth tells how the hyacinth received its name. Hyacinthus was a gifted and handsome mortal youth, beloved by Apollo, the Sun God, and also by Zephyrus, God of the West Wind. Hyacinthus preferred to spend playful time with Apollo. Zephyrus became jealous and was annoyed that a mere mortal, however talented and beautiful, could command Apollo's affection and interest.

One day when Apollo had challenged Hyacinthus to a game of quoits or throwing the discus, Zephyrus let his jealous fury go. He blew strongly on the discus and caused it to strike Hyacinthus on the forehead, ending his life. Apollo was grieved and vowed the beauty of the young Hyacinthus would always be remembered. From the blood of the slain youth, he caused a path of fragrant, purple flowers to spring up and named them after the dead youth.

The original purple hyacinth has been hybridized to a wide range in colors and many shades of each color for you to choose from. Hyacinth flowers have the truest and largest variety of blues of any spring flowers. Besides blue, look for white, yellow, pink, orange, scarlet, maroon, salmon, violet and just about every color in the rainbow. Hyacinths are the easiest of all Dutch bulbs to grow in your garden. They do better if planted a bit deeper than most bulbs.

Hyacinths will flower longer than most bulbs because of short, thick stems and the way that the flowers are arranged on the stem in rows side by side and close together. This tight flower will not blow over in heavy winds or rain like tulips and daffodils do. If you do not move the bulb once planted, it will last for many years and usually outlast the time in the garden of most bulbs. Hyacinths will do best in a light soil with good drainage, a soil conditioned with compost or animal manure and a soil that is refreshed every year with fertilizer like Bulb-Tone when the plant is in bloom.

When the flower fades, remove the entire flower stem right to the ground but do not touch the foliage until it begins to turn yellow, as this foliage is making energy for the bulb for next year's flowers. Hyacinths do best when planted in a sunny garden but will tolerate a bit of shade early in the day. Plant early in the fall to give the bulb time to make big roots and get established before the ground freezes. Plant bulbs in groups so they can brace each other in stormy weather, and remember groups of colorful bulbs look better and are more eye-catching than bulbs planted in rows or scattered throughout a large flowerbed as single bulbs.

Dig your hole 10 inches deep; add a bit of Soil Moist moisture retention granules and Bulb-Tone bulb food, never BONE MEAL, to prevent animals from digging up flowerbed looking for real buried bones. Cover the soil and keep the garden soil well watered until the ground freezes. Space the bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart in the hole to give them room to grow. I like to cover the planting bed with bark mulch for extra winter protection.

One of the nice things about hyacinths is that they are not eaten by rodents such as mice, voles and squirrels. In addition, when the plants begin to bloom, hyacinths will not be eaten by rabbits and deer--and that is one thing less we have to worry about in the garden. All the rodents and animals we just mentioned love tulips and will eat them in the ground and above ground--but not hyacinths. Hyacinths are easy to plant and care for--and the animals that live around your home will not bother them.

For forcing--if you have an unheated garage or tool-shed, pot some bulbs in containers filled with soil and keep them watered and cool with temperatures less than 50 degrees. For the next 10 weeks, the plants will make roots and begin to think of flowering, so keep them cool.

I have used the steps that lead down into my basement from the bulkhead door with great success. Halfway up to the outside doors seems to have the best temperatures. Watering the potted bulbs is necessary during those 10 weeks of growing. After 10 weeks, bring a pot or two into the house and watch the bulbs begin to grow; enjoy the fragrant flowers in a couple of weeks. If you are going to force the hyacinth to flower, always use the biggest bulb you can find and stay away from bag bulbs--as they are too small to force.

Also look for the pre-treated hyacinths for forcing, in the special hyacinth glass that looks like an hour glass that tells time filled with sand. This special hyacinth glass holds the bulb in place and keeps the bulb in water at the right level to prevent root rot. I always buy extra bulbs and store them in the vegetable crisper to keep them cold, as they were tricked to believe that they already had winter.

When the bulb finishes flowering, toss it into your compost pile or pot it up with soil and place it on a sunny window for 4 to 6 weeks so it can make energy for next year. After the 4 to 6 week period on your windowsill, place the potted bulb in the basement and allow it to dry up. Plant in the garden in April and it will flower next fall.

If you have a grassy area or wild flower bed on your property and would like spring flowers, look for the miniature hyacinths called grape hyacinths. Grape hyacinths come in blue and white and will spread quickly in these areas as long as they receive plenty of sun.

                                                                   (grape hyacinth)
If you have a shady area with good soil, look for wood hyacinths, which will naturalize very easily for you. Wood hyacinths come in white, pink, blue and purple. Just like the Dutch hyacinths, grape hyacinths and wood hyacinths are not eaten by rodents and other animals.

Like the Dutch hyacinths, these two beautiful hyacinths are fragrant, long lasting and spread in a soil that is well drained and fertile, so feed the when planting and every spring when they come into bloom with Bulb-Tone fertilizer."

Paul Parent Garden Club
October 2010

Designing WIth Bulbs

KCB is back. The following post will be used as the basis for our upcoming Bulb Class on 10/06 at all Skillin's locations at 10 AM (Falmouth is sold out at 10 AM but we do have an encore Bulb Class in Falmouth at 2 PM. Openings remain for Brunswick and Cumberland at 10 AM) Contact us at skillins@maine.rr.com to sign up! Just specify store location!

There is a new phrase in town

Dig a hole

                        Drop the bulb          

                                                Done!!!!!

 

Sounds easy, well…..it is almost that easy.  It has been found (by surveys of major bulb vendors and experts) that most failures with bulbs can be traced back to problems at the time of planting. Give yourself time to do proper planting, and don't ignore the details.

First, what is a bulb?  A bulb is the self-contained life source for the plant. A ‘true ‘bulb is the more rounded fleshier store house. Tulips, allium & snow drops are in this category. However, not all ‘bulbs’ are bulbs. 

Corms are usually smaller and flatter in shape. Crocus & Gladiola are common corms.

Tubers are more varied in shape and size with most being cylindrical. Many come in clusters. Begonias & dahlias are the most common. 

Now on to the fun aka the ‘DO’S & DON’TS OF ‘DIG, DROP, DONE’!

Before you DIG you must buy!

DO be adventurous. While you may not want orange, reds or yellows in your summer garden these bright primary colors are perfect tonics after the dull winter.

DO be as fussy picking your bulbs as you would a melon. Avoid bulbs that feel spongy or with visible mold.

DO shop early to get the best variety.

On a budget?  DO opt to select more of 1 or 2 -3 varieties in 2 or more colors.  This will create more impact than a few crocus followed by 3 or 4 tulips and/or hyacinth.

DON’T plant too soon.  Some look to the calendar to plant saying end of September to Mid-October is the time. Others wait until the evening temperatures average 40- 45 degrees, then there is the ‘rule’ that says once there is a ‘soft’ frost its ok. With the warming climates Mid-October until the ground is too cold or frozen to work works best for my gardens.

DO keep in a cool dry place until you are ready to DIG.

DIG. A variety of tools are available to make this task a little easier.

DO choose a place wisely.  Bulbs will rot in wet or poorly draining soil.  Full sun is required for most bulbs however what may be a shady spot in the height of summer may be the perfect spot early in the season. Visualize where you will get more ‘bang for your buck’.  Plant near entrance doorways, along the most used paths or close to your house.

DON’T plant too deep or too shallow. A good rule of thumb is a depth 3 x the largest diameter.  A bulb 1 inch across will be planted 3 inches deep; 2 inches would go 6 inches.  Mix a fertilizer such as BulbTone’ in with the soil. (Tulips should probably be planted 4 times as deep as they are wide--the deeper the better for tulips!)

DO prepare for pesky rodents such as chipmunks and use a product that will repel the perpetrators of bulb planting peril. It’s worthwhile to drench bulbs in taste repellent products, sprinkle repellents on the growing plants in spring, and surround or cover the bulbs with chicken wire. Or

DO use bulbs that animals don’t like: Alliums, Camassia, Fritillaria and Narcissus

DROP:

DO mass plantings. DROP a handful in then place pointed side up and leave a space about 2x the size of the bulbs between each neighbor.

DON’T sweat the small stuff, If a bulb should fall on its side while you are in the throes of planting, let it go. It will find its way.

DO plant with a companion plant.  Remember foliage should remain until all withered. Many nurseries have fantastic sales at the end of the season. Day Lilies make perfect companions as do many Sedums.

Design tips for spring bulbs

Combine flower bulbs with perennial for a succession of bloom. In addition, there's a big bonus: the emerging perennial foliage hides bulb foliage as it yellows and dies off.

Try a double-decker effect. You can plant small bulbs in a layer right on top of large bulbs. If you plant bulbs that flower in the same period you can create an interesting double-decker effect (picture bright pink tulips blooming above cobalt blue Grape Hyacinths). Or you can stagger the bloom time by planting mid- and late-season bloomers together, creating a spring display that blooms in succession, for a whole season of color!

Keep in mind the bulb color, time of bloom and height of the plants and consider which bulbs will mix best with nearby perennials and spring-flowering shrubs. Your combinations can be color echoes, such as the 'Ballade' tulip with bleeding heart, shown right, or color contrasts such as yellow daffodils with blue muscari.

Concentrate your display where it will be most effective in spring. Lots of bulbs in one or two areas of the garden close to the house will give you more bang for your buck than the same number spread all over the garden.

Avoid planting bulbs in rigid toy soldier-like rows. Generous "bouquets" are far more dramatic than a smattering here and there. Combine different bulbs by planting low-growing grape hyacinths and scillas in front taller tulips and daffodils.

Plant drifts of color in triangular patterns with the point of the triangle showing towards the front.

Try planting in layers. Place large later spring bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils or ornamental onions at the bottom of the planting hole, cover them with a layer of soil, then, on top, plant smaller early flowering bulbs such as scilla that require shallower planting.

Expand the bulb menu.  Look for a variety of alliums. Allium Bulgaricum, allium-moly-in-garden, or Allium-vineale-Hair. Fritillaria, Red-Hot Poker.

 

 

 

KCB is a professional gardener and friend who does wonderful work in the Greater Portland area. KCB is also an accredited Master Gardener by the Cooperative Extension Service and we are honored to have KCB as part of our Skillin's Garden Log family. KCB can also be found at the awesome Finishing Touches website.

KCB for Skillin's Greenhouses

 

October 3, 2012

Bulb Gardening Thoughts

Spring bulb planting begins in October as the night and day temperatures begin to fall and the air becomes clear and dry. Purchasing bulbs is another story and that can begin in September. Bulbs should be firm and show no signs of rot or damage. Some retailers sell inexpensive bulbs but be cautious of these, although they will survive they may be too young to produce flowers for several years if at all. Here are some of the products needed:


Bulbs of your choice Spring bulbs need to be planted in full sun (min. 6 hours) in little well drained soil. Each variety of bulbs has a mature height and bloom time so stag your planting low in front tall in back as well as stagger the variety for bloom time to lengthen the season.

Espoma Bulb Tone Bulbs like many of our garden favorites are not always growing naturally in our yards so the nutrients that they require mat not be available in the levels that they need to perform at their best. Bulb Tone is an all natural plant food (3-5-3) a complete blend aiding in the full development of our bulbs. Always follow the recommend amounts that are suggested on the packaging unless a soil test tells us differently.

Coast of Maine Cobscook Blend, Quoddy Mix or Little River Compost Bulbs like most of our perennials require a moderate amount of organic matter in the soil for them to flourish. The Coast of Maine products are the most consistent and general show the best results.

Bulb Planters Nothing beats a good shovel when creating a mass planting of bulbs. However for spotting bulbs throughout the garden in and around existing plants a bulb planter or auger that fits onto a cordless drill is a very effective tool. Bulbs should be planted at least 4 X their diameter. This is from the top of the bulb to the surface of the garden bed. This means the top of a 2” bulb should be 6” deep in the soil making the hole approximately 8” deep.

Ro­-Pel Many of our native animals of all sizes enjoy our bulbs as much as we do but for an entirely different reason. They taste good. We have found that Ro-Pel has been one of the most effective repellant to protect our bulb investment. Before planting bulbs soak them in Ro-pel for one minute allow to dry before planting. For deer and other spring feeders spray all surfaces including both sides of the foliage.


Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
September 28, 2011

March is the Time to Begin Planting Bulbs Indoors

Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM. Paul recently sent this article out called "March is the Time to Begin Planting Bulbs Indoors" (I occasionally add a few comments in italics) and here it is:


"It's time to look at the calendar, not out the window! If you planning to have tender bulbs in your summer garden, NOW is the time to start planting them in your home. Visit your local garden center and pick up such bulbs as tuberous begonias, cannas, calla lilies, caladiums, and dahlias--just to name a few. If you can start them during March in your home and transplant them to your garden in early May, these plants will bloom earlier and longer in your garden for you! (We will have all these bulbs in our stores very soon!)


In the past, many of you have planted these summer flowering bulbs directly into the garden--and that is OK! But if you start them this month in your home, it will motivate you, encourage you, and excite you that spring is really coming. Please try it--you will feel better!

Some of you have stored these bulbs in your basement for the winter. It's now time to bring them upstairs, wake them up, repot them, and watch them come to life. These bulbs have been hibernating all winter, like you, and NOW is the time to get moving! Are you getting the message yet? It's time now!

All you will need is a good sterile potting soil mix like Coast of Maine's Bar Harbor Blend all natural soil. Use new pots or wash your old pots with bleach before adding soil to them and then you're ready to plant. I use one cup of bleach to a gallon of water to sterilize the containers. You can reuse them year after year. Brush off any soil stuck to the pots and dip the pot in this mixture for 30 seconds. Allow them to dry and you're ready to plant--so let's clean those pots now.

Here are suggestions for pot size; tuberous begonias use 4 to 6 inch pots, cannas use 6 to 8 inch pots, calla lilies 4 to 6 inch pots, caladiums 4 to 6 inch pots, and dahlias will depend on the size of the bulbs types. Dahlias that grow 1 to 2 feet tall – use a 6 inch pot, 2 to 3 foot tall growing--use an 8 inch pot, and 3 to 6 foot tall growing--use a 10 inch pot.

When you purchase these bulbs for the first time, ask the sales person to show you what side of the bulb is up. Please do not be embarrassed to ask for help, this is new to you and you want to do it right the first time! (We love to answer any gardening questions you have!)

Planting depth is easy, usually, as most bulbs need to be covered with one inch of soil in your container. Once the bulbs have been planted, give the soil around them a good watering and place the containers where it is warm in your home. These bulbs do not need light until they begin to emerge from the soil; warmth is more important to wake them up and get them growing.

The soil should be kept moist while these bulbs develop so poke your finger into the container and feel for moisture before you water again. Until the roots form, your soil will not dry up so be careful not to over-water. Once the plant pokes through the soil, give it a good drink of water and fertilizer such as Neptune's Harvest Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer or Tiger Bloom by Fox Farm! This is a great fertilizer for root development and flower production on all flowering plants--especially bulbs.

Once the bulbs begin to grow move them to a sunny or brightly lit window where they will stay until they are ready to go into your garden. I spin the container every week, some times more often if I notice they are bending towards the light. This will keep them growing straight. If at all possible, choose a room that stays cool to keep the stems short and thick; if they are growing fast and thin, move them to another window that is not as hot.

Two weeks before you're going to plant them in your garden, put them outside during the day and back in the house at night to get them acclimated to the outside temperatures. Do this the first week and the second week move the plants into your garage or tool shed for the night time. If the weather is stormy during the day leave them in the tool shed or garage as they need to prepare for the move outside.

Start with just a few bulbs the first year and see how you make out. This is just another area of gardening you must learn how to do. You may fail, but you could also succeed and this is a great learning experience for you. When you succeed, pat yourself on the back and call me on Sunday to tell me all about it. If you're having problems, call me. I will be there for you. Enjoy."


Many thanks to Paul Parent!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
March 10, 2011

Snowdrops!

Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club (http://www.paulparent.com/) sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM. Paul recently sent this article out called "Galanthus aks Snowdrops" (I occasionally add a few comments in italics) and here it is:



"After a long winter, the snowdrops are the first spring flowering bulbs to emerge from your garden, and it's a real treat to watch the flowers develop. Snowdrops appear when the weather is still bleak outside during late winter and into early spring. The grass-like foliage begins to emerge as soon as the snow melts from the cold ground and is quickly followed by beautiful flowers.

The short stem that forms holds a single pendulous, white, mildly-scented six-petal flower that develops in the shape of a lantern or street light. As the temperatures warm up, the flower stem grows taller until it reaches 6 to 8 inches tall--and so does the foliage. The flowers break open, revealing three inner short petals in the center of the flower that are green tipped on the end of each petal. The three outer petals are oval, 3/4 inches long and pure white. The bloom is translucent white and the outer petals resemble the wings of a bumblebee.

From the Greek language, Galanthus means "milk flower," and according to Christian legend, the snowdrop first bloomed to coincide with the Feast of Purification, held on February 2, known as Candlemas Day. To celebrate the arrival of spring, snowdrops must be planted in the fall, and they will do best in full sun or partial shade. The bulb will grow best in a soil that does not dry out during the heat of summer so if your soils are sandy, plant them in partial shade or under tall deciduous trees that have had lower branches removed to allow the sunlight in.

Plant the bulbs in groups of 2 or 3, in a hole 3 to 4 inches deep and wide. If your soil is good, the bulbs will produce seeds that will mature and increase the size of the clump, so add a handful of compost to the hole when you plant. I also add Soil Moist granules to help hold water near the bulb. The bulbs will do great in heavy soil as long as there is no standing water on them and prefer soils that are neutral, so add limestone on the areas you plant for better growth and more flowers.

Snowdrops are small bulbs and inexpensive to purchase when compared to tulips or daffodils. These bulbs are also not eaten by rodents, rabbits or deer and make a great plant to naturalize areas on your property where wildflowers grow. Once established, the area will thicken with flowers quickly. As long as you do not mow the foliage down before it has turned yellow, the plant will spread quickly.

The foliage needs time to ripen and uses the sun's energy to make food for the bulb for next year. If you plant in a grassy area, do not use a broadleaf weed killer or the bulbs will also die off. Plant bulbs in groundcover beds such as English ivy, pachysandra or vinca for wonderful early spring color before these plants make the new foliage in the spring. If you plant on the side of a hill, set them up on the top of the hill and watch the plants spread down the hill each year as the plant produces seed--almost like a stream of water running down the hill.

Fertilize in the spring when the flowers fade and again in the fall with Bulb-Tone by Espoma and never use bone meal as a fertilizer or it will encourage animals to dig in your planting beds. The bulbs are hardy from Maine to Northern Florida, as long as there is a cold spell during the winter season.

You will like these bulbs better than crocus, because of the time of the year they flower, the hardiness of the bulb, and the fact that the bulbs are not eaten by animals; plus they are inexpensive, so you can purchase more bulbs for your money and get more flowers. Plant some snowdrops this fall and in the spring you will know why I love this bulb so much. Enjoy!"

October Garden Talks 2010

The purpose of this post is to relay a few "quick hit" garden tips to you through the month of October. Some of these tips will be garden tasks I am doing myself, some of these tips will be quick pieces of advice we are giving to customers, some will be quick links to good gardening advice we encounter on the internet.

                                                     (photo found at http://www.dannylipford.com/)

Check back to this post often as we will update it often as we roll through October 2010!

Here are our September Garden Talks 2010 .

October 18--Sorry folks meant to do some posting over the last couple of days but work duties have kept me from the keyboard! Let's review--Skillin's Country received about 3.5" of rain on Friday. Hopefully not too many lost power. This rain has really soaked our gardens and lawn areas and that is a good thing!

It will be VERY COLD tonight in all parts of Skillin's Country. I still have some container plantings I want to keep going so I am going to haul the frost blanket out. I will also spray some plants later tonight with water and then again early tomorrow AM. This may hold off (or in the case of the morning showering blow off) those nasty frost particles!

I talked with many customers yesterday about planting bulbs. We still have a great selection of bulbs here. One KEY is to plant those bulbs DEEP--usually 2 or 3 inches deeper than normal directions. Try going about 4 times as deep as the bulb is wide.

Deeper planting of bulbs is better for several reasons: 1) to better insulate bulbs from roller coaster soil temps. The deeper the bulb the more even the temperatures are.  Bulbs like it cool. 2) A deeper depth makes it more difficult for above ground rodents to tamper with the bulbs 3) A good depth also makes it easier to plant annual plantings "on top" of the bulbs in the Spring.

October 14--Here is a recent email question we received from customer Donna:

From customer Donna: Is fall the best time to prune lilacs? My bush isn't producing very well.

Answer: Lilacs can be pruned in the fall but it is not the best time to prune them. By now the lilacs have set much of the growth that will produce flowers for next year. SO, by pruning now you would probably not have any flowering this coming Spring.


The BEST time to prune lilacs is in early to mid June right after their normal flowering time of late May.

One suggestion would be to give your lilacs a good feeding of Plant Tone by Espoma right now and some handfuls of a good calcium based lime like Mira Cal by Jonathan Green. Both products will work slowly to improve the soil around the lilacs and this should help the lilacs produce better. I usually recommend two feedings of Plant Tone and one of Mira Cal yearly.

Also, we had a very dry summer—we have had some good rains lately but make sure your lilacs get a good deep watering weekly between now and when the ground freezes.

Finally, lilacs thrive in the sun. Are they in an area where it is shady? Perhaps that is the issue as well.

October 13--Gardening friend Margaret from http://www.awaytogarden.com/ checks in with some great garden tips quite often. Her web site is worth a visit. This garden tip from her "October Chores" caught my eye: "AS VEGETABLE PLANTS (and annual flowers) fade, pull them to get a start on garden cleanup. Before composting the remains, cut them up a bit with a pruning shears or shred, to speed decomposition. I sometimes just run piles of dry things over with the mower (nothing too woody or you’ll wreck your blade, of course)."


October 13--Here is a recent email question we received from customer Nancy. I thought I would pass the discussion along:


From customer Nancy: I have a question about soil. I have gardened for years and have always had great luck with vegetables. This summer, for some reason, I used Miracle Gro organic potting soil for tomatoes on my deck and Miracle Gro garden soil mixed with the soil in my garden for vegetables in the yard. Now, this was great for my flowers - I have never had so many healthy blossoms - but the plants didn't set much fruit at all. The only thing that grew well was beans. Was I missing some key element for the plants to set fruit?


Answer: For container plantings we recommend the all organic Bar Harbor Blend potting soil by Coast of Maine Organics (we sell this Maine based product right here at Skillin’s—good pricing!). This is a very well composted soil. We then recommend weekly or every other weekly liquid feedings with all natural Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer by Neptune’s Harvest. Yum Yum! This gives your veggie plants a good balance of nutrients with a great shot of calcium that is great for vegetable fruit.

October 12--Gardening friend Margaret from http://www.awaytogarden.com/ checks in with some great garden tips quite often. Her web site is worth a visit. This garden tip from her "October Chores" caught my eye: BE EXTRA-VIGILANT cleaning up under fruit trees, as fallen fruit and foliage allowed to overwinter invites added troubles next season. So will mummies (shriveled fruit hanging on the trees). Best to pick and remove (though I confess to leaving mine hanging for the birds, who adore it).

October 10--We survived the frost of last night pretty well along the coast but I have an idea deeper in Skillin's Country the cold was very likely more severe.

We received a couple of email gardening questions at skillins@maine.rr.com and I thought I would pass the discussion along. Feel free to email us your gardening questions!

From customer Marty: "You recommended composting perennial beds this fall. Have lots of daffodil bulbs in them. Do I need to put on bulb fertilizer too or will the compost do for all especially when the bulbs are mixed in so much with the later plantings?"


Answer: I would put some scatter some Bulb Tone by Espoma all natural fertilizer (or its cousin Plant Tone) on top of the soil before I laid down the compost.


This fertilizer will be available in the Spring to help give those daffs a nice PUSH in the Spring.

From customer Lori: "I bought a passionflower vine this summer, and I'm wondering if it will winter over okay, or if I should try to bring it in? If I can leave it outside, is there anything I can do to protect it?"

Answer: I would definitely bring the plant indoors this winter. It will not overwinter out of doors.

When you bring it in, give it as much light as possible. It may well need a good haircut sometime over the winter to set it up for as nice shape as possible this coming Spring.

October 7--Well that rain we received overnight was great. About 1.5" of rain fell in Skillin's Country and our plants will use it well!

October 6--As the weather turns cooler and cooler in Skillin's Country we are at a point where it is good to cut back almost to the ground any perennials whose foliage has become unsightly. The seedheads and dried foliage of some perennials add interest during the winter months, while others just look messy. As the weather continues to cool more and more perennial foliage will turn less and less attractive so keep those pruners sharp and ready! This weekend looks to be a good time to get out in the garden for tasks like this. The eminent garden writer KCB posted a terrific article on putting garden Beds to Rest. Check it out!


October 1--Good gardening friend Hammon Buck of Plants Unlimited in Rockport ME recently sent out a great gardening email. One piece of advice focused on using Winter Rye as a cover crop and I liked what Hammon wrote. If you do rototill your garden in the Spring, we recommend winter rye as a winter cover crop or what the "old timers" like me call "green manure". Here is what Hammon wrote:

"Cover crops are grown to protect and/or enrich the soil rather than for short term economic gain. When turned into the soil, a cover crop is called a green manure, so the terms are reasonably interchangeable. Cover crops are an important part of a crop rotation plan to maintain soil health and reduce insect, weed, and disease pressure.


Cover crops protect the soil from wind and water erosion, and they can help alleviate compaction. With the exception of legumes, which fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, cover crops don’t actually create nutrients, but they can conserve nutrients which may otherwise be lost through leaching. Some deep rooted crops can obtain nutrients from below the root zone of most vegetables. When these cover crops are turned under, the nutrients will be released to the upper zone of soil. Fast-growing cover crops are well-suited to suppressing weeds, by “smothering” them and starving them for light. Use high seeding rates if cover crops are grown for weed suppression.

Winter Rye is a common winter cover crop, sown after cash crops are harvested in the fall. It is very hardy, adapted to a wide range of conditions, and seed is inexpensive. The latest-sown cover crop, it produces a lot of biomass in the spring. This adds organic matter to the soil but may be difficult to incorporate prior to crop planting. Sow 60-120 lb/acre if drilled, 90-160 lb/acre if broadcast, from late summer to mid-October in most areas. Incorporate rye in early spring before it gets too rank for your equipment to handle."

Soil for Containers; My bulbs are Coming Up!

Hello again!

We received a couple of great email questions from our customers in the last couple of days and here they are!

Customer Sharon L had a question about using old soil in containers: "Can I save potting soil from annual plants to reuse later, instead of always buying new potting soil? That is what I have always done, but not sure if it's ok. Always trying to recycle plus save money whenever possible."

Our answer: This is a great question. What I usually do is reuse about ½ of my old soil and devote the other ½ of the container to new soil. For the soil I most often recommend Bar Harbor Blend by Coast of Maine Organics. It is locally produced, it is the BEST soil I have ever used and it is a better price than the brand names—(because it is locally produced and transported).


I devote the unused ½ of the soil to either new containers OR put it in my compost pile. I use quite a bit of my own compost as mulch around my perennials and annuals (another cost saving technique).

Customer Joanne's question: "My daffodils are up about 1/2 inch or more next to the house. No snow. Should I cover them with shredded leaves or leave them alone?"

Our answer: Mine too! This lack of snow plus warm weather has the bulbs like daffodil and crocus revved up. At this point I would leave them alone; they will still blossom at the proper time. When we do get more snow; I will shovel a little extra on top of my daffodils but that is about it!



We love customer questions! Drop us a question anytime at skillins@maine.rr.com and we will get you an answer. We answer the question directly to you and then if we feel the question is really topical we will include the information (but not give away your identity) right here at the Skillin's Garden Log!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 14, 2010

Blooming bulbs don't have to be a spring thing!

Hello again,

Following is a great article written by Susan Reimer in the Baltimore Sun dated December 3, 2009. I think the timing of the article is great and we have these forcing bulbs in plentiful supply here at Skillin's!

"I am not sure whether it's gardeners anxious to extend the growing season - or those who market to gardeners - but paperwhite and amaryllis bulb kits are stacked for sale like fruitcakes at this time of year.

These are the bulbs that can be "forced" to bloom out of season without the months-long hibernation required by tulips, hyacinths and their kin, and they provide a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous poinsettia. According to the National Garden Association, 4.9 million households purchased bulbs for forcing last year - up from 4.1 million in 2007.

The kits sell for a few dollars and come with bulbs, a pot, soil of some kind and instructions a child could follow. As a matter of fact, the speed with which these bulbs grow and bloom make them a good project for children, especially when grown in glass, where the roots can be seen.

I received my first amaryllis from a neighbor last year for Christmas, and I was so encouraged by the easy results that I am forcing paperwhites this year, staggering their start so I will have new blooms every couple of weeks. It is cheaper than a bouquet of fresh flowers and lasts longer.

According to Scott Kunst, owner of Old House Gardens in Michigan, which specializes in heirloom bulbs and their history, paperwhites are descendants of the Chinese Sacred Lily, which was not actually a lily and blooms as part of the Asian New Year celebration.

Brought to this country by Chinese immigrants in the late 1800s, they soon found their way into the parlors of Americans, who were fascinated at the time with anything Chinese.

Kunst says hyacinths were among the first bulbs to be forced because they responded well to the process. Forcing was easy in the 1800s, too, because houses were so cold that the hibernation period was easy to reproduce.

"You read in diaries from that time that the glass vases broke because it was so cold in the bedroom. Or all the bulbs froze because they left them on the windowsill overnight," said Kunst.

It takes a little more resourcefulness to force bulbs today - or a spare refrigerator where temperatures can be kept under 48 degrees but above freezing for eight to 12 weeks. There are varieties of tulip, daffodils, crocus and hyacinth that are particularly good for forcing - Kunst recommends Lady Derby and Linnocence hyacinths - but if you are trying it for the first time, you can use any of the bargain-basement bulbs available at this time of year.

Here are some things to remember:

•Plant bulbs close together but not touching, and with the tips pointing up and exposed. Plant in regular potting soil with plenty of drainage pebbles. Water thoroughly and then again perhaps once a month. Mark the pot with the date and the contents and place it in a cool place between 35 and 50 degrees. (A kitchen refrigerator is not a good choice. Fresh fruits and vegetables emit a gas that inhibits blooming.)

•Hyacinths can be planted in the traditional hyacinth vase, with the bulb cradle, narrow neck, and water or water and pebbles below. Water should just touch the base of the bulb.

•Depending on the recommended hibernation time (10 to 16 weeks), remove the pot and place it in a cool spot in the house, allowing it to warm slowly. Blooms should appear in two to eight weeks. Keep it out of direct sunlight so blooms will last longer. Do not overwater!

•Though most bulbs can not be forced a second year because forcing requires so much energy, you can transplant the bulbs in the garden in March, with some fertilizer, and they should bloom the next year. "

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
December 3, 2009

The Time is Now: Bulb Planning and Planting

Hello again,

Okay September is turning into October and it is time to think Spring! How do you do that? By planning and planting a Spring flowering bulb garden, of course! And this Saturday we want to show you how best to do just that! Fall is the time to plant bulbs for Spring color and we have the best selection in Maine as well as easy to use supplies! Come to our Bulb Planting and Planning Class! Remember that tu-lips are better than none and that the first step toward Spring is the planting of bulbs in the fall!

This free class is being offered at 10 AM this Saturday October 3 in Brunswick, Cumberland and Falmouth and you can reserve a space by calling any of the above numbers OR by contacting us at info@skillins.com (just specify the store!).

Before I forget, we will once again have some nice refreshments on hand this Saturday as well for you to sample. All good gardeners need to keep the blood sugar level high and we love our food. So the subject will keep you on the edge of your seat but our hospitality should keep you smiling!

Want a great view of our Falmouth Maine farm where we grow mums, cabbages & more? Folks we are real Maine people growing Maine products—we are strong Buy Local supporters. Check http://www.skillins.com/2009fallvideo.html for a great tour of the range where our fall mums and cabbages are grown. Terry Skillin is your host and he does a great job!

Bulb Gardening Thoughts

Spring bulb planting begins in October as the night and day temperatures begin to fall and the air becomes clear and dry. Purchasing bulbs is another story and that should begin in late August and September when variety and quantities are at their peak. Bulbs should be firm and show no signs of rot or damage. Some retailers sell inexpensive bulbs but be cautious of these, although they will survive they may be too young to produce flowers for several years if at all. Here are some of the products needed:

Bulbs of your choice Spring bulbs need to be planted in full sun (min. 6 hours) in little well drained soil. Each variety of bulbs has a mature height and bloom time so stag your planting low in front tall in back as well as stagger the variety for bloom time to lengthen the season.

Espoma Bulb Tone Bulbs like many of our garden favorites are not always growing naturally in our yards so the nutrients that they require mat not be available in the levels that they need to perform at their best. Bulb Tone is an all natural plant food (3-5-3) a complete blend aiding in the full development of our bulbs. Always follow the recommend amounts that are suggested on the packaging unless a soil test tells us differently.

Coast of Maine Cobscook Blend or Fundy Mix Bulbs like most of our perennials require a moderate amount of organic matter in the soil for them to flourish. The Coast of Maine products are the most consistent and general show the best results.

Bulb Planters Nothing beats a good shovel when creating a mass planting of bulbs. However for spotting bulbs throughout the garden in and around existing plants a bulb planter or auger that fits onto a cordless drill is a very effective tool. Bulbs should be planted at least 3 X their diameter. This is from the top of the bulb to the surface of the garden bed. This means the top of a 2” bulb should be 6” deep in the soil making the hole approximately 8” deep.

Ro­-Pel Many of our native animals of all sizes enjoy our bulbs as much as we do but for an entirely different reason. They taste good. We have found that Ro-Pel has been one of the most effective repellant to protect our bulb investment. Before planting bulbs soak them in Ro-pel for one minute allow to dry before planting. For deer and other spring feeders spray all surfaces including both sides of the foliage.

Mark Your Calendar!

Here are our more of our classes and events. Our classes will be held Saturdays at all three locations (unless otherwise stated) at 10 AM. Space is limited so reserve today for the classes of your choice! Class participants receive a special Skillin’s discount coupon for use on the weekend of your class.

SKILLIN'S CUSTOMERS WHO ATTEND SIX OUT OF OUR NINE CLASSES IN THIS SERIES RECEIVE A $60 SKILLIN'S GIFT CERTIFICATE! Check out our whole series of classes at www.skillin.com!

You can reserve a space in our classes by calling any of the above numbers OR by contacting us at info@skillins.com (just specify the date, store and time).


OCTOBER 10-Fresh Floral Arranging (10 AM & 2 PM)We are all about color and fun here at Skillin’s! Or is it fun then color? No matter because everyone’s favorite class is back! We will show you how to make the coolest, most colorist, most funnest arrangement!There is a $15 fee to cover materials.
We hope to see you soon here at Skillin’s!

OCTOBER 17- Birds in the Back Yard Gardening is great! And birding is awesome—they really go hand in hand; 2 outdoor activities that attract people of the same feather. HaHaHa! Let us show you how to attract and keep the finest of our feathered friends.

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
September 30, 2009

Hard to Find Spring Flowering Bulbs? We've Got 'Em!

Hello again,

The following article appeared lately at http://www.bulbs.suite101.com/ and while brief it does highlight some nice choices that we don't often talk about but never fear such bulbs are available here at Skillin's! (We have the BEST selection of bulbs in Maine for sure!).

Here is the article:

"Snowdrops (Galanthus spp.) for White Winter Flowers

Hardy in zones 3-9. Graceful, drooping blooms are produced that can be lost in a bank of late season snow, but look pristine white in a muddy, early spring. They grow 4-6 inches tall and need rich, well drained soil. Snowdrops take part to full shade and can be used to underplant larger shrubs and ornamental trees. Snowdrops also prefer cooler weather so gardeners will find that by late spring the foliage has yellow, dried and disappeared completely as the bulb goes dormant until the following year. When snowdrops are allowed this process without cutting back the leaves, they will often naturalize by bulblets and seeds.

Dwarf Iris (Iris reticulata) in Early Spring

Hardy in zones 5-8. This small blue, purple, or violet irises only reach 3-6 inches tall, but provide jewel like color in the later winter or early spring garden. They tend to look best planted in large sweeps of color or mass plantings. If gardeners want early blooming yellow irises they should look for I. dandfordiae. According to Missouri Botanical Gardens, if gardeners plant the iris bulbs a little deeper, at least 3 inches, they won't try to spread out via bulblets and the flowering display will be better. Small bulblets will produce lots of foliage but won't produce as many flowers until the mature.

Star-Shaped Blooms With Glory of the Snow (Chionodoxa spp.)

Hardy in zones 3-8. A very hardy bulbs tolerates cold winters well and will provide delicate, star-shaped blooms in the late winter or early spring. The species flowers are purple with white an yellow centers. New varieties are available in pink or white. Another diminutive flower, as many early blooming bulbs are, the Glory-of-the-snow reaches 3-6 inches tall and prefers full sun to part shade. When suitable conditions are provided it will naturalize readily, increasing the show each year. Since glory of the snow flowers are not affected by jugone they can be planted under walnut trees and, indeed, they do well under most deciduous trees since their bloom season is over before most broad-leaf deciduous trees will leaf out.

Winter Aconite (Erantis spp.) for Early, Bright-Colored Blooms

Hardy in zones 4-9. One of the most eye-catching choices for early spring or late winter flowering bulbs, the winter aconite has dark green leaves circling bright yellow flowers like a leafy collar. Bright colored and cheerful looking flowers are a forerunner to the daffodil's golden blooms in the landscape. Winter aconite grows 3-5 inches and prefers rich, well-draining soil. They grow well in full sun to part shade and do well under deciduous trees. Bulbs sometimes bloom better if they are soaked before planting and gardeners should avoid periods of heavy drought even after the bulbs go dormant during summer and fall.

Gardeners can plant these early-blooming bulbs in the fall to enjoy late winter or early spring flowers.Read more: http://bulbs.suite101.com/article.cfm/early_blooming_bulbs_to_plant#ixzz0QYKzgzMh"

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
September 11, 2009

Garden Talks May 18--KCB talks tulips, Messenger and assorted thoughts!

KCB, Reigning Master Gardener of the Year for 2008 and renowned contributor to the Skillin's Garden Log checks in with observations from "what is going on out there":

Tulips and foliage:

Many of the newer, especially the larger variety tulips flower best the first spring. Over time the energy will wane and will only produce foliage. The foliage will continue for many years so it is less frustrating to dig up the old bulbs and start over. Do this in the spring so you will know where the non-performing buggers are. Fertilizing all tulips once or twice a year, in fall or early spring, will encourage them to flower well for several years. It is ok to remove the stalk or ‘deadhead’ but keep foliage until yellowed and browning. If the site of dying foliage is bothersome plant some companion plants to disguise foliage. Other conditions affecting tulips would be over crowding on varieties that naturalize. If this occurs, dig up your tulips just before all the foliage has completely died down and divide by pulling smaller new bulbs from the base of the old bulb and replant them.

Sandy soil is best for Tulips (or any bulb) to increase and flower in later years. Good Drainage is essential. The fact that there is moss overtaking the lawn may mean there is a drainage issue. One final tulip note, at one of my bulb classes someone remarked that they had stalks but no blooms. Sorry to say the bloom was food for a ground hog. The couple lived in the city so the thought of a groundhog was never considered.

Messenger, oh, what can I say. I still use it selectively; mostly for roses and peony. However this spring I had some Heuchera that were suffering from winter damage, rusty leaves and looked rather sad. I cleaned the effected leaves, doused w/messenger per directions. The next visit 2 weeks later I witnessed their transformation. Better looking than the year before. Heuchera has become one of my favorite foliage plants. All the Coral Bells in my gardens will be awarded a Messenger drenching and maintain the treatment through out the season.

KCB for Skillin's Greenhouses
May 18, 2009

The Spring Bulb Blues, Yellows, Purples………..

KCB is a professional gardener and friend who does wonderful work in the Greater Portland area. KCB is also an accredited Master Gardener by the Cooperative Extension Service and we are proud to tell you that KCB rules as the 2008 Maine Master Gardener of the Year. And we are honored to have KCB as part of our Skillin's Garden Log family.

There is nothing as welcoming as that first sprout of a crocus. I have been known to dance with joy, squeal with glee. Grape Hyacinth, Daffodils, Hyacinth, Snow Drops and Scilla receive a welcome nearly as jubilant. Alas, I forgot tulips, though forgotten they are not. Sometimes just a disappointing memory. Yet I digress; the fact that buds and blossoms of the popular tulip are not devoured by a cute groundhog or stately deer is deserving of a celebration all their own.

As I meet with new clients this time of year, a common theme is spring bulbs. Those without the first colorful friends of spring are envious of the lucky landscapes sporting pops of yellows, purples, even whites. Others are frustrated as their bulbs have disappeared (squirrels, chipmunks anyone?) Then there are several whose bulbs are not doing well. All have a little less spring in their step, feel a little bluer, then their buddies boasting of bountiful blooming bulbs.

We do know that in order to be blessed with these early spring offerings we must plan and plant in the fall. For some reason many have revealed to me that by the time October/November rolls around they are ‘gardened out’. They are on to the new school year, holiday preparations or spending energies and money doing inside chores and repairs. Alternatively they are among the group who feel left out of the emerging colorful palette that welcomes the season. If you are part of the latter, mark your journals and plan for the future. Sign up for the e-mail newsletter from a favorite nursery or garden center. You will be among the first to be alerted that the bulbs have arrived. Much more inexpensive than a late winter Caribbean vacation.

One advantage of utilizing my services or of any landscape/gardening professional is that we will help you to meet your bulb goals. I do not profess to be a miracle worker yet there are things that anyone can do at this time of the year to help their bulbs. These are some of my springtime bulb maintenance tips:

*Deadhead spent blooms. You want the energy to be sent to the bulb and not produce a seed head. (see below regarding naturalizing)
*Remove flower stalk unless you want the plant to naturalize, as in the case of daffodils.

*Allow foliage to fade to yellow and/or brown before cutting back.

NOTE: If you want to utilize companion planting to hide the declining foliage there are many choices. Since it may be sometime before you choose and install a desirable companion the exact spot of your bulb plantings may not be evident. Mark bulb area with golf tees. They are relatively inexpensive and withstand many seasons. I choose neon colored ones purchased at surplus and salvage stores. Simply push into dirt next to bulb or around area if bulbs are grouped. When you begin to dig later in the season and a tee is spotted then you know you are in danger of digging up a bulb or two. Move your hole slightly.

*Fertilize with a balanced mix with high phosphorus P (middle number in plant food & fertilizer blends).
--Espoma’s Bulb Tone is my favorite.
--Bone meal is often used yet may attract animals.
NOTE: The ’to fertilize or not to fertilize’ is often a controversy. Some only feed newly planted. Others will do upon first sight of the sprout. the practice of applying after the blooms have all faded has been successful for my gardens. Make sure to water in well in any case.

What to do if you know you planted bulbs yet nothing comes up?
o Check to see if the bulb is still there of if it was planted pointy side up.
§ If gone, then some chipmunk or squirrel enjoyed a treat. Try sprinkling red pepper around bulb and again planting hole next you plant.
§ If upside down, try again next year.


You have tulips that have no blooms.
o If there is a stem surrounded by leaves then a deer, groundhog or perhaps a visiting rabbit enjoyed a treat.
o No stem; the bulb is spent. Most tulips will last 2-5 years. After that they will produce weaker and weaker blooms and eventually none.
§ Some will dig bulbs, divide, and/or remove any week bulbettes and replant. This is not a practice I maintain. It IS important to dig up the bulb, however. It will continue to put forth foliage for many years. It is best to dig up and begin again next fall.

For those who do not want to wait to fall to put forth their bulb passion, there are some that are made for spring planting, especially in our Zone 5/4. Refer to individual plant instruction on depth and space of planting. Most will require digging and storing over the winter.

o Canna Lily
o Gladiolus
· Some varieties are able to over-winter in ground for 2-5 growing seasons
o Dahlias
o Agapanthus (Lily of the Nile)
o Freesia (as annuals)

Personally, I do not plant ‘annual bulbs’ for my clients unless I can treat them as true annuals and begin afresh next season. In my travels I have seen the most spectacular Dahlias that are generations old. I have spoken to proponents of the Grand Gladiola and would not imagine a summer floral arrangement without them. I met a couple with dozens of majestic Lily of the Nile in terra cotta containers that each spring and fall had to be wheeled to their summer home from an onsite green house. All of these are labors of love. Any who attempt such an undertaking truly have my utmost admiration and envy.


It is never too late to put some spring in your step, or your garden. There are more than one way to accomplish the ‘blues’……….

KCB for Skillin's Greenhouses
March 27, 2009

Dahlias!!

Sheliah checks in again from high atop of Raymond Maine. I have said it before and I will say it again; if you can grow a green garden there then you can grow one anywhere!

Look at her gorgeous dahlias!

Here is what Sheliah has to say:

"Garden Hint: Did you dig up your Dahlia's last fall? Start them in a window in April and give them a nice head start. You will be rewarded with a very long bloom time. I stated doing this after too many years of watching my Dahlia's loaded with buds turn black by the frost in early Spring. Let them get a great head start this April and most of May indoors and then place some beautiful plants outdoors and ENJOY some awesome color for the summer and fall! Mike wants me to tell you that dahlias and other summer flowering bulbs are on sale (20% off) this weekend as part of our Open House celebration!"

Sheliah for Skillin's Greenhouses

High atop Raymond ME

March 26, 2009

Garden Talks Week of March 2, 2009

Good friend Hammon Buck of Plants Unlimited in Rockport ME sent out some very timely gardening tips recently and I am going to shamelessly share them with you. Plants Unlimited is a great operation and can be found on Route 1 in Rockport as well as at http://www.plants-unlimited.com/.


*Ornamental Grasses Gone Ugly?

"If you left your ornamental grasses standing last fall to create winter interest, the beauty is probably gone now! The repeated snow and ice storms have probably flattened them and made them quite unsightly. When you can finally get to these grasses, cut them down to within an inch or two of the soil line. This will help make way for new growth in the spring!"

I have not grown any ornamental grasses in my yard. Last fall we cut down or cut away a lot of shade trees that had grown up around my once sunny back yard. One goal of mine was to create a better landscaping situation where I can grow more "edible" plants such as more blueberries, raspberries, etc. BUT also I would like to try some ornamental grasses to highlight certain areas. Let me know at info@skillins.com or comment below as to some neat ornamental grasses you have tried and like in your landscape!

*Great Fruit Production Starts in March!

"March is the ideal time to prune your fruit trees while they are still dormant ( before the buds show any green). Take out any dead and winter-damaged wood, suckers at the base and branches that rub against one another. Then, thin out the interior so it's not crowded or twiggy. Finally, shape the tree overall to maintain a healthy, pleasant stature."

Awesome advice. Terry Skillin also wants to remind you that the end of March or beginning of April is a good time to start your dormant oil program. We sell some very safe sprays for your fruit trees that will help combat insect and disease and combined with good pruning as discussed above will mean a great yield of fruit.

*Where Did I Put the Crocus?

"Watch for crocus and snowdrops in protected and warmer areas of your garden. If mulch or lingering snow is hiding them or smothering them, gently push some of this away. They might need help with late snowstorms too but once they push their heads up, they will brighten up your yard! These early bloomers are amazingly resilient!"

Not bad advice. For the most part I don't worry about snow holding back my little bloomers. The timing usually works out fine--especially once that early Spring sun gets to work melting that snow!

*Cold Frames Really Extend the Season!

If you have a cold frame or are thinking of making one, early spring is the time to think about getting it started! Little seedlings can be raised and acclimated in its shelter allowing you to soon move some of your seedlings from your house to the cold frame. Early cold crops like lettuce, broccoli and others will withstand some cooler temperatures.

*Summer Flowering Bulbs

"If you stored tender bulbs such as glads, dahlias and begonias, check on them now. Get rid of any that show signs of mold or rot, as well as any that are shriveled. Brush off any loose dirt and return them to storage bags or sacks. Sprinkle a little bit of fungicide powder in the bag if rot has been a problem."

It may be early for the glads and dahlias but I would get the begonias started. We sell biodegradable pots that you can plant them into for easy transplant later. Also I heartily recommend all natural Bar Harbor Blend potting soil by Coast of Maine Organics as the soil to use. Get those begonias going NOW for all season beautiful color!