The Birch Family

Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club (http://www.paulparent.com/) sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM.

"The first tree we learned about in school as children is the birch! It was the tree used by many nations of the American Indians for transportation, shelters, storage containers, and even religious ceremonies. It was easy to recognize because of the beautiful white bark on the tree all year long. Did you know that the name birch means "shining white" and it shares its name with an ancient Irish goddess Brigid? The German and Russian people refer to the birch as "The Lady in the Forest." The nourishing and caring birch is an image of the White Goddess, standing for motherhood and protection. In a cool climate like New England it is considered the "Lady of the North American Forest."


Did you know that the original maypole was a tall birch tree brought into the village to celebrate the arrival of the spring season? The birch tree became the focal point of merry making, and it was said that in early February many children were born. And you thought that the birch was just another tree--be careful when planting!

Birch trees love the New England weather and have adapted to its many climate changes. They love the moist soil near the edge of a river or lake, where they grow in the wild and in a mixed forest of many hardwood trees. The birch has also adapted to grow on sides of slopes in a stony to sandy soil. The one main demand of the birch tree is that it must have an acidic soil. If the soil pH is high, the leaves will turn pale green to almost yellow, resulting in growth problems and eventual death. If you have birches on your property be sure to keep limestone away from them, as they thrive in acid type soils.

Birch trees will do very well on your front lawn as a single tree or planted in groups. It will grow in full sun but do just as well when shaded by large trees like oaks and maples for part of the day. You will find that there are many varieties of birches to choose from. Traveling in the mountains, you will see many paper or canoe birches growing in large groves. This native type of birch tree will grow as a single stem tree reaching 50 to 70 feet tall. The canopy of foliage will spread to 25 feet or more over the wonderful white bark which extends from the trunk to the tip of the branches. Birches grow almost pyramidal when young, and as they age will become oval or more rounded in shape. isThis tree is resistant to birch borer; this trait should be remembered when you are shopping for a tree for your yard.

The best clump-type birch is the river birch. It is resistant to birch borer, and the best type to tolerate heat during the summer. This is important, as most of us plant clump-type birches in the front of the house in the middle of the lawn with full sun all day. The river birch is also more appreciated for its character in a planting as a focal point tree. When young, the bark will have a cinnamon color and the bark will peel back or exfoliate, making it more interesting. As the tree matures, the color of the bark will begin to turn white and become more noticeable in front of the house. The leaves of birches will grow from 2 to 4 inches long, and each variety looks different.

Look for the weeping birch called 'Youngii' for great character, or the new dwarf birch called 'Little King' that grows in clumps and only 10 feet tall. I have a 'Little King' and love it! Use Tree and Shrub Insect Control in the spring to control leaf miner insect problems. Fertilize in the spring with Tree-Tone Fertilizer to help keep the tree strong and healthy."

Skillin's 2010 Perennial Additions! K-P

Following is a list of Skillin's perennial plant additions for 2010. This list is compiled by Becky and Elaine from our Skillin's production facility. It is a long list but it makes for some practical and interesting reading! I will add some of my own comments (in black italics) to some individual plants as we go along but what follows is a good plant by plant description of what will be new in Skillin's perennial yard in 2010!


Plants with common names beginning with A-D and E-H are listed at Skillin's Perennial Additions for 2010! A-D and Skillin's Perennial Additions for 2010! E-H right here at the Skillin's Garden Log. Just email us at skillins@maine.rr.com and we will send you the entire list as a Word Document. Or we will have K-P available here at the Skillin's Garden Log in just a few days!


LENTEN ROSE – Helleborus

‘Ivory Prince’ 12”-18” tall. Buds are burgundy pink and open to ivory white which become streaked with rose and chartreuse as they mature. Leaves have a compact habit. Great for naturalizing in moist woodland areas. Blooms early to mid spring. Deer resistant. Zones 4-9.

LILY-Lilium

Asiatic Lily

‘Crimson Pixie’ 14” tall. Pure red flowers.

‘Gironde’ 36” tall. Lemon yellow flowers.

‘Monte Negro’ 43” tall. Flowers are deep red.

‘Royal Sunset’ 36”-42” tall. Flowers are gold with reddish-pink tips and maroon spots at the center.

Oriental Lily

‘Cobra’ 32” tall. Deep red flowers with a tin white edge. Very fragrant.

‘Red Dutch’52” tall. ‘Large yellow flowers with a huge brilliant red center’. Flowers are fragrant and long-lasting.

‘Salmon Star’36” tall. Flowers are salmon pink with white edges. Petals have dark salmon spots. Fragrant.

Trumpet Lily

‘Pink Perfection’ 60” tall. Pink flowers with a light pink center. Fragrant, outward facing flowers.

LUPINE –Lupinus

‘Tutti Frutti Mix’ 24”-36” tall. Large bi-colored blooms. Needs well drained soil. Blooms early summer. Full sun.

LUNGWORT – Pulmonaria

‘Cevennensis’ 12” tall. Leaves are long and narrow with ‘large silvery blotches’. Leaves may reach up to 26” long. Dark blue flowers in early spring with a long bloom time. Deer resistant. Blooms early spring. Nice plant to have and it is shade tolerant as well!

MASTERWORT – Astrantia

‘Star of Beauty’ 20” tall. Carmine rose flowers with white centers. Heavy flowering with long-lasting flowers. Vigorous grower. Blooms early to late summer. Zones 4-7.

‘Star of Fire’ 20” tall. Burgundy-red flowers with white centers and dark purple stems. Another heavy flowering variety with long-lasting flowers. Vigorous grower. Blooms early to late summer. Zones 4-7.

MEADOW SWEET – Filipendula

‘Aurea’ 30” tall. Foliage starts gold-green in spring and turns lime-green later in the season. Creamy white flowers. This variety prefers part shade to shade as leaves will scorch in sun. Blooms early summer. Zones 3-7. I like the Meadow Sweet but don't currently have any growing in my perennial beds. This plant intrigues me very much!

MONKSHOOD – Aconitum

‘carmichaelii Arendsii’ 40” tall Upright clumps. Leaves are glossy green with deeply cut lopes. Tall spikes of large violet-blue flowers. Deer resistant. Blooms mid to late summer. Zones 4-8.  Monkshood is always a winner in the garden with its tall blue flower spikes. This looks like a great choice!

MULLEIN – Verbascum

‘Plum Smokey’ 18” tall. Shorter, compact variety with smokey-purple flowers. Will bloom most of the summer if deadheaded and makes a nice container plant. Attracts hummingbirds. Deer resistant. Zones 5-9.

ORNAMENTAL RHUBARB – Rheum

‘Rheum palmatum’ – 72” tall. Coral red flowers above huge green foliage. Great specimen or back of the border plant. Prefers fertile, well drained soil. Sun to shade. Blooms summer. Zones 3-6. This looks like a beauty! If you have some space and a need for a tall background plant this may be the one for you!

PEONY – Paeonia

‘Charles Burgess’ 36” tall. Semi-double bright red flowers. Prominent stamens are tipped with gold. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer.

‘Coral Fay’ 30” tall. Semi-double, coral pink flowers. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring.

‘Dr. Alexander Feming’ 30” tall. Double salmon-pink flowers. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer.

‘Early Scout’ – 22” tall. Single, dark red flowers with yellow stamens. Finely cut foliage. One of the earliest peonies to bloom. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring.

‘Moonriver’ 28” tall. Double flowers are creamy white with a pink blush. Mildly fragrant. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer.

‘Pink Dawn’ 38” tall. Single flowers with light pink petals that are speckled a darker pink. Gold stamens. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer.

‘Santa Fe’ 30” tall. Semi-double. Magenta pink outer petals with smaller creamy pink inside petals. Deer resistant. Blooms later than most peonies. Blooms early to mid summer.

‘Shirley Temple’ 36” tall. Double flowers start out a light rose color and turn white. Fragrant. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring.

‘Top Brass’ 34” tall. A tri-colored peony with ivory out petals and a center of light yellow and pink. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer.

Peonies that are fragrant

Fragrant flowers plants are always in demand because with the development of so many hybrid varieties the flower scent is often lost.
‘Moonriver’

‘Shirley Temple’

PHLOX – Phlox

Garden Phlox - Paniculata

‘Shorty White’ 15” tall. Pure white flowers. Good mildew resistance. Blooms mid-late summer. Zones 4-8.

Creeping Phlox – Stolonifera

‘Home Fires’ 8”-10” tall. Profuse deep pink flowers. Fragrant. Long bloom time. Will take more shade and phlox subulata. Blooms early summer. Sun to part shade. Zones 3-8

Creeping Phlox –Subulata As you can see by the zone listings, creeping phlox is VERY hardy!

‘Candy Stripes’ 4”-6” tall. Pink and white striped flowers. Blooms late spring.Sun to part shade. Zones 2-9.

‘Emerald Pink’ 4”-6” tall. Pink flowers on compact plants. Long flowering. Blooms late spring. Sun to part shade. Zones 2-9.

PINKS – Dianthus

‘Dragon Fruit’ 8” tall. Fragrant double flowers. Blooms are bright pink with ruffled magenta markings. Grass-like, gray-green foliage. Blooms early summer to early fall if deadheaded. Deer resistant. Zones 4-9.

‘Tiny Rubies’ 4”-5” tall. Tiny, double rose-pink flowers on mounds of deep green foliage. Clove-like fragrance. Lovely rock garden plant. Bloom early summer and again in early fall. Sun to part shade. Zones 3-9.

POPPY –Papaver

Orientale – Oriental Poppy

The Oriental poppies can spread so make sure you plant them where you don't mind them edging out some. That being said, the paper like flowers and brilliant colors make this plant a stand out!

‘Fancy Feathers’ 24” tall. Dark pink, semi-double flowers. Petals have fringed edges. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring.

‘Turkenlouis’ 28” tall. Deep red flowers with fringed petals. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring.

‘Summer Breeze Mix’ 12”-15” tall. Yellow to orange flowers similar to Icelandic poppies but because flowers do not set seed they have a very long bloom time. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer. Zones 4-8.

PRIMROSE – Primula

‘Salvana’ 7”-9” tall. ‘Pincushion-like’ cluster of violet-blue flowers. Buds and stems are silvery. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-7.

Coming soon: R-Z!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 26, 2010

Dormant Pruning

Good friend Hammon Buck of Plants Unlimited sends out some very nice gardening information and this recent post came to my attention and I thought I would pass it on to you. This is extremely topical and VERY good advice for us gardeners in Skillin's Country. Plants Unlimited is a terrific garden center based in Rockport Maine. Hammon and I talk quite often and I always learn something about gardening and garden center business when we do speak. I hope he benefits some as well. Plants Unlimited is always worth a visit and they can be found at http://www.plants-unlimited.com/ and also at 629 Commercial Street (Route 1) in Rockport ME.


The folks at Plants Unlimited recently sent out some very information about dormant or winter pruning. I will post these in just a second but I also want to give you a link a Garden Log post last year courtesy of Plants Unlimited that covered very well some pruning techniques. I think that post matches up well with what we bring you today!

Lastly we will be holding a terrific Pruning for a Purpose workshop (free of charge) on March 20 at Skillin's Brunswick and Cumberland at 10 AM and 2 PM and March 27 at Skillin's Falmouth (also 10 AM and 2 PM). If you would like to attend shoot us a note at skillins@maine.rr.com and we will sign you up!

Here is what we have to say today about dormant or winter pruning, courtesy of Plants Unlimited:

"This is a great time to prune now those woody landscape plants that bloom on current season's wood while dormant... Pruning in late winter, just before spring growth starts, leaves fresh wounds exposed for only a short length of time before new growth begins the wound sealing process. Another advantage of dormant pruning is that it’s easier to make pruning decisions without leaves obscuring plant branch structure. Look over your plants now and remove dead, dying, or unsightly parts of the tree, sprouts growing at or near the base of the tree trunk and crossed branches.Pruning at the proper time can avoid certain disease and physiological problems.


Some of the common shrubs you prune while dormant include glossy abelia, barberries, blue mist (Caryopteris), summersweet, smokebush, spirea, cotoneasters, and late viburnums (such as blackhaw and American cranberry bush). Depending on how high you want these to grow, you can prune them back to as much as above the first pair of buds above the soil.

Trees and shrubs that bloom early in the growing season on last year’s growth should be pruned immediately after they finish blooming--NOT NOW! Following are a few plants you don't want to prune now!

apricot                   forsythia                     Juneberry                       rhododendron

azalea                    flowering plum            lilac

chokeberry            ornamental cherry       magnolia

chokecherry          daphne                       early blooming spirea

Shrubs that bloom on the previous season's wood should be pruned after they bloom in late spring or early summer. Examples of those that you should prune after bloom are lilacs, forsythia, rhododendrons, and early viburnums. Prune these right after they bloom because they will then start forming flower buds for the following year. "Why didn't my shrubs bloom this year?"(very common question!) Pruning these during summer or fall will cut off next year's flowers. You often see this with forsythia, which grow rampant after they flower and gardeners "shape" after or late into the growing season.

Of course broken branches can be pruned off now in winter.

Plants Unlimited goes on to talk about pruning fruit trees and grapes this time of year:

"Prune fruit trees and grapes in late February or early March after the worst of the winter cold is passed but before spring growth begins. Grapes pruned very late in the season usually start spring growth slightly later than those pruned mid-dormancy. Such a delay in bud break may be desirable in frost prone areas.


Prune apple trees, including flowering crabapples, mountain ash, hawthorns and shrub cotoneasters in late winter (February-early April). Spring or summer pruning increases chances for infection and spread of the bacterial disease fireblight. Autumn or early winter pruning is more likely to result in drying and die-back at pruning sites."

Let us know at skillins@maine.rr.com or any Skillin's location (phone numbers listed at http://www.skillins.com/) if you have any pruning questions!

An "Open Winter" Check of Perennials

Hello again,

Folks what an open winter indeed we have seen in Skillin's Country! With so much more fallen snow to the south of us this winter has been a head scratcher indeed!

Good friend Hammon Buck of Plants Unlimited sends out some very nice gardening information and this recent post came to my attention and I thought I would pass it on to you. This is extremely topical and VERY good advice for us gardeners in Skillin's Country. Plants Unlimited is a terrific garden center based in Rockport Maine. Hammon and I talk quite often and I always learn something about gardening and garden center business when we do speak. I hope he benefits some as well. Plants Unlimited is always worth a visit and they can be found at http://www.plants-unlimited.com/ and also at 629 Commercial Street (Route 1) in Rockport ME.

Here is the post:

"Outdoors, check your perennial plants. An "open winter," like this one demonstrates the need for protective mulch on strawberries and many perennial flowers as well as garlic, over-wintered spinach, and other crops that can easily be damaged by alternate warming and freezing of the soil. Although it is too late to undo any damage that's done, mulching now can prevent additional damage caused by spring fluctuations in soil temperatures.


Perennials, especially those newly planted last season, will sometimes "heave" out of the ground with an open winter (and the alternate warming and freezing of the soil that comes with an open winter. If you can't "step" or get the plant back into the ground, mulch it heavily and do so as soon as the frost leaves the ground. (and folks the frost is leaving the ground in sunny exposed areas of Skillin's Country!)

So far, we are not expecting too much plant damage with our lack of snowfall because temperatures have been fairly mild without giant fluctuations. Let's hope we don't have a "big chill"!" (that would cause the ground to "seize up" the root system!)

As I said to my good friend Joe one warm day: "Joe days like this as lovely as it is--this is why we mulch!" (To keep the ground frozen!)

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 24, 2010

The Lovely Martha Washington Geranium

Hello again,

(this article is a reprint from February 2009 but applies very well to today!)

Yet another fantastic sign of Spring is the arrival of the Martha Washington geranium from our greenhouses in Falmouth. We grow this plant right here in Maine (ALERT, ALERT! Maine grown product, Maine grown product, Support Your Local Economy!!!!!) This striking plant is a bright companion for many weeks ahead as our days evolve from winter to Spring. If you want to try something bright, fun and cheery for these late winter days then this will fill the bill!

Put your plant in a sunny window for best flowering. Fertilize monthly when plant is flowering but cut back to every two months in the fall and winter. Your geranium will do best if the day time temps are around 65 degrees with night temps around 55. To best maintain these cool temperatures try keeping that plant right in a sunny window this late winter and early Spring.

How do you “winter over” the Martha Washington geranium? This can be a challenge because the plant needs a good long cool spell in the fall to “set up” buds for the next season. It also needs a great deal of light during the winter; at precisely the time we have short winter days. If you can get the Martha Washington to flower again you will have great appreciation for just how talented our crackerjack greenhouse staff really is!

But, if you are up for a fun horticultural challenge here are a few tips to bring your Martha Washington back to flower. If any of you have indeed done this and have a few tips to share of your own, please email us your comments at skillins@maine.rr.com and we will post them under an accompanying article at the Skillin’s Garden Log (found right at http://www.skillins.com/) or feel free to leave your comment there!

After the plant is done flowering, I would keep the plant in bright light but eventually cut the plant back, first the dead and dying flowers and then as summer progresses cut the plant back sharply. If this produces some good strong growth around the base of the plant by late summer that is great! Cut the old growth away and let this new growth take over as the new plant for next year.

I almost forgot! Once the weather warms up, put your plant outdoors (pot and all) in only filtered light. Keep the plant outdoors for as long as you dare in the fall. Remember it wants to feel many weeks of COOL temperatures. A fall cold frame is ideal, but also out during the day and in on only cold nights might work well. Obviously by the time frost is a serious danger the plant should be back inside but then in a very sunny spot. This might also be a good time to repot the plant although most plants flower best when they are “tight” in the pot so unless your plant is overly top heavy OR unusually thirsty then maybe, just maybe you should skip a year before repotting.

Once winter hits the plant will need long days of light. So a very sunny window is necessary and probably some grow lights EARLY in the morning to give the plant a good long sunny day in winter.

Is your head spinning? Then relax and plan on buying another Martha Washington in February 2011. After all these plants are a bargain! Just $14.99 will buy you weeks and weeks of color!

(above photo taken by Hamilton Farms. That picture is great; our Skillin grown plants are brighter and "showier" still!!)

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses

Lawn Overdue!

KCB is a professional gardener and friend who does wonderful work in the Greater Portland area. KCB is also an accredited Master Gardener by the Cooperative Extension Service and we are honored to have KCB as part of our Skillin's Garden Log family. KCB can also be found at her awesome Finishing Touches website.

From my 3rd floor perch, I look out to Casco Bay. Okay, just wanted to remind myself why I moved back to a building that seems to sway as much as the waves when the wind erupts. March hasn’t even come in but the Lion and Roar has come to roost on the hill I call home.

Not all my gazes are outward; I look down upon some very clever plots of land. Once upon a grassy patch now are hardscapes for sitting and grilling, garden beds for color, interest, fragrance even eating. For the natural and playful need of the 4-legged inhabitants, grass enough. I’m not saying these back, side or front yards would accommodate a child’s play set, a self-contained dog park or longed after pool. Nevertheless, these city oases are more than adequate for their intended need. Not a city dweller? Suburban and rural folk alike can create a multiuse yard of their own.

We do more living out of doors than that of our parents yet most of our landscapes are not too distant cousins. Most expansive lawns are underutilized. With this realization does the pain of mowing and maintaining a lawn make you wish for Condo life? Why not compromise.

True, I do not include lawn maintenance as part of my services so why not utilize my talents more and theirs less. Financial gain aside, gardens will cost the homeowner less in the long run. Eliminating a lawn all together may only appeal to a certain few. David, a friend of mine, found this worked for him. (Check out David's garden blog at A Garden in Maine).The front of his house is a never ending surprise of color and interest from early spring through frost. What I am advocating is the suggestion of decreasing your lawn and increasing the utilitarian aspects of your outerscapes. Additionally, as referenced in my last post, more ecologically friendly.

As a do-it-yourselfer within a year I am sure you will agree. Less grass for mowing means less gas for the mower. Selling the riding for a small self-propelled may bring a small windfall.

One deck or patio may equate to too much togetherness. Others frolic in the pool and you long to sit out of doors in solitude. Do much more than drag the chair to another corner of your yard, have a cozy corner ready for your waiting.

Is it possible to capture romance for 2 while the teenagers are parading the patio during their pizza party? Yes, you may dine alfresco with friend or partner far enough away to converse in private and close enough to keep an eye on the gang. Create the mood and the space with a bistro table upon a few flat pavers or crushed stone. Add a chiminea or portable fire pit to morph ‘your spot’ to a place where after dinner coffee or stronger beverages are enjoyed when the nights begin to chill.

All the scenarios may be appealing; creating all these vignettes most likely is not practical, at least not at first. Over the next few months I hope to post instructions for expanded outdoor rooms. For those who appreciate my more frivolous aspect of life as a gardener, I could never give up on writing these.

There is a beginning for everything. So where and how? Assuming the bones are in place; flower and/or vegetable beds, a patio, deck or other hard and solid space for chilling, grilling and fun-filling! What you are about to create are the accessories added to a much loved outfit.

Whenever I anticipate changing lawn to bed, or transforming any part thereof, I begin by saving newspaper. (We talked about using newspaper as garden mulch a couple of years ago at the Skillin's Garden Log) Not the glossy or overly colored pages. So happens I only purchase the Sunday Paper which serves more than adequate. I get all my neighborhood news and activities from the local free publications. These are added to my pile. For bigger projects I may resort to purchasing wrapping paper used for moving. Only the largest projects had mandated this requirement. Think twice before you recycle, especially before you throw. A large plastic storage bin not only makes your collection neat but also adds ease when carrying it to your destination.

The next step(s) will require forethought. Define the purpose. Think back to when you were outside this past summer. Did you long for a shady nook to read? Was a napping spot between 2 trees important? While you worked at the kitchen sink did you think how much less like work it would seem if your view was a shock of colorful plantings instead of a burned lawn?

Check your journal for any notations such as “When kids are home from college wish John and I had our own outdoor spot” or “I’d love a hot tub but our deck/patio is already too crowded.” Perhaps “I would so much prefer deadheading and playing in the dirt to mowing a lawn only the dog uses.” Let this be the year you keep current flowering beds as they are. Chances are you just add to them just because you can. Oh, do not forsake them; just allow them to be part of a bigger and better picture.

The minimal snowfall this season is perfect for laying down the foundations. Choose a spot that you wish to de-grass. Lay 3-4 layers of newspaper to cover the area. Normally I dampen as I cover but this may not be possible during the frosty months. If you have extra bags of organic garden soil or compost stored, haul them to serve as paper weights. Your local family- owned garden center or nursery often have bags in back rooms. Call ahead to have them ready. Too complicated, extra stones or bricks will also serve. You have just gotten a head start on the season. How good does that feel?

Shortly after your first new space is created you too will think this was lawn over-due.

KCB for Skillin's Greenhouses
February 24, 2010

Quince!

Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club (http://www.paulparent.com/) sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM.

"When winter comes to its end, look to the common flowering quince to begin the spring season. Quince is one of the earliest flowering shrubs of the spring season. Not as showy as the well known forsythia shrub but it brings us a welcome sign that spring is here. If you can plant the quince in a south facing exposure--away from wind and protected--you will be in for a real treat. The flowers begin to open near the ground first and move up the stems as the temperatures increase outside. You can even cut branches from the plant NOW and force them into bloom indoors in a tall vase filled with water.

The quince grows in an unruly shaped mound that is just as tall as it is wide. It will grow to 6 feet tall but can be easily pruned on a yearly schedule and kept to 4 feet tall or less. Pruning is required to encourage new growth, because the new growth this year will make flowers for next year. After the flowers fade, remove some of the old wood to make room for the new growth--do not be scared to prune! Say to yourself "I am doing this for your own good," and the plant will thank you with more flowers the next season. Remember, the plant will have many stems almost like a tangled mass of crisscrossing branches.

The foliage is dark green and shiny. The leaves are 1.5 to 3 inches long and oval shaped. Under all the foliage is a surprise for you--thorns! The bark is dark brown. If you want to build a pretty hedge to divide your property from the neighbors and keep them out, this is your plant.

The flowers resemble small roses with multi petals. The flowers are numerous on the tips of the branches and run down the stems of the plant. Each flower will open to 1 to 2 inches in diameter and have a yellow center. The flower color range is from pure white, soft pink, salmon to scarlet red. As the flowers mature, the color will fade, giving the plant a multi-colored look. Some of the flowers will be single and some double, on the same plant. The flowering cycle is 4 to 6 weeks, longer than most because of the outside temperatures being cooler at this time of the year. The warmer the outside temperatures, the shorter time a plant will bloom.

With a little bit of luck Mother Nature will give you a present. This plant will make some fruit that will grow 2 to 3 inches round, pale yellow to a blush color, resembling a pear and as hard as a rock. The fruit will make a great tasting jam or jelly--which can often be found in Cape Cod gift shops.

You can plant in a part shade area as well as a full sun location. The best plant will grow in a rich soil with a lot of organic matter, such as animal manure or compost. Well-drained soil with no standing water is best--and sandy rather than clay-type soils. Fertilize in the spring after pruning to encourage more flowers. Build a mulch bed around the plant and it will make it easier to mow the grass around the plant. The only problem you will have is in the fall when leaves from trees fall on the quince and you want to remove them. Just remember THORNS!! "

Skillin's Perennial Additions for 2010! E-J

Following is a list of Skillin's perennial plant additions for 2010. This list is compiled by Becky and Elaine from our Skillin's production facility. It is a long list but it makes for some practical and interesting reading! I will add some of my own comments (in black italics) to some individual plants as we go along but what follows is a good plant by plant description of what will be new in Skillin's perennial yard in 2010!


Plants with common names beginning with A-D are listed at Skillin's Perennial Additions for 2010! A-D  right here at the Skillin's Garden Log and is easily found in the February archive. Just email us at skillins@maine.rr.com and we will send you the entire list as a Word Document. Or we will have K-P available here at the Skillin's Garden Log in just a few days!


ENGLISH DAISY – Bellis


‘Strawberries and Cream’ 6” tall. Creamy pink outer petals with deep pink inner petals. Blooms early spring. Sun to part shade. Zones 4-10. English daisies are hardy as can be; they don't flower for long but there is no plant more bright and cheery! Truly a good friend to have!

FALSE SPIREA –Astilbe

Astilbe are generally hardy; any perennial garden needs 2 to 3 varieties both consistency yet color contrast. Astilbe is definitely a Mike Must Have!

Pink to Peach Flowers

‘Country and Western’ 16”-20” tall. Dark green foliage. Very full and ‘fluffy’plumes of salmon-pink flowers. Very compact habit and increased flower production resulting in longer bloom time. Deer resistant. Blooms mid-summer. Zones 3-8.

‘Rheinland’ 24” tall. Dense, diamond shaped panicles of rose-pink flowers. Leaves are large and medium green. Blooms early summer. Deer resistant. Zones 4-9.

‘Younique Silvery Pink’ – 12”-16” tall. Ver thick plumes of silvery pink flowers and very compact foliage. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer. Zones 3-8.

Dark Pink to Red Flowers

‘Radius’ 20”-26” tall. Fine foliage with a copper-red tinge in the spring. Buds are burgundy red and open to bright red flowers in early to mid summer. Deer resistant. Zones 4-9.  My favorite astilbe are the rich red ones! Striking indeed

‘Red Charm’ 40” tall. Arching red flower plumes. Blooms early to mid summer. Deer resistant. Zones 4-9. This is a taller than usual astilbe and the height and red color have me interested!

FEATHERLEAF – Rodgersia

‘Firework’ 34” tall. Pink flowers on dark stems. Dark green foliage which is edged with maroon later in the season. Needs moist soil. Shade to part shade. Blooms summer. Zones 4-7.

FOAM FLOWER – Tiarella

‘Black Snowflake’ 8” tall. Green leaves are deeply dissected with prominent purple-black centers.12” spikes of white star shaped flowers in early spring to early summer. Flowers are slightly fragrant.Deer resistant. Part shade to shade. Zones 3-8.

FOXGLOVE –Digitalis

‘Camelot White’ 36”-48” tall. Large pure white flowers with purple-red speckles. Cutting back spent flower stalks will encourage re-bloom. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer. Sun to part shade. Zones 4-8.
Foxglove of course is an old timer and if you have never tried it you will fall in love with the flowers of any of the varieties!
GENTIAN –Gentiana

‘True Blue’ 16”-20” tall. Smooth, lance shaped leaves on upright plants. Clump forming with ‘large 2” tubular blue flowers’. Flowers are produced along stem nodes. Requires moist well-drained soil. Deer resistant. Blooms summer thru fall. Zones 4-7.

HARDY GARDEN MUM – Chrysanthemum

‘Samba’ 18” tall. Flowers start out light peach and turn pink as they mature. Yellow centers. Mound forming. Blooms late summer to late fall. Full sun. Zones 5-9. Still only marginally hardy; the hardier mums are usually on the short side. But they do bring good color at a great time of year for color!

HELEN’S FLOWER – Helenium

‘Double Trouble’ 30” tall. Double yellow flowers with prominent gold centers. Petals are ‘frilly’. Compact plants with study stems. Flowers are sterile and plants bloom all summer. Deer resistant. Blooms summer. Zones 4-8. Good long-term color here. I recommend it!

HOSTA –Hosta

See the nice post by Paul Parent about hosta!
Blue Varieties

‘Love Pat’ 14”/15”. Blue leaves are thick an puckered and deeply cupped. White flowers in mid to late summer. Good sub for ‘Blue Cadet’. Blooms mid to late summer. Part-shade to shade.

Variegated Varieties

‘Dream Queen’ 24”/26”. Medium, nearly round leaves. Blue green with a nearly white to slightly yellow center. Foliage is slightly corrugated. White flowers. Part shade to shade. This color combo sounds nice!

‘Fireworks’ 10”/8”. A dwarf hosta. Leaves are narrow, stiff and upright with deep green margins bleeding into creamy centers. 12” scapes with light lavender flowers bloom in mid summer. Part shade to shade.

‘Hanky Panky’ 13”/33”. A sport of ‘Striptease’. Young leaves are green with a lime green edge with a narrow white line separating the middle from the margin. As the leaves mature the edges lighten with a ‘pale green overlay’. 23” scapes with lavender flowers in mid summer. Part-shade to shade. I thnk the lime green edge adds a nice touch of class to the hosta. Class? With a name like Hanky Panky? But it is true!

‘June’ 15”/20”.Leaves have chartreuse centers with blue green margins. Center turn gold in summer. Lavender blue flowers in mid to late summer. Blooms mid to late summer. Part-shade to full shade.

‘Stained Glass’ 15”/48”. A sport of ‘Guacamole’. Very large gold leaves with green margins that bleed into the gold center. Prominent veining. 30” scapes with large, fragrant, lavender flowers in late summer. Has some sun tolerance.

‘Sugar Daddy’ 20”/24”. A sport of ‘Big Daddy’. Large blue-green leaves with white margins that ‘streak’ toward the center. 20” scapes of white flowers. Slug resistant. 'Big Daddy' is a tough old hosta and I bet 'Sugar Daddy' takes after his 'Daddy'!

‘Thunderbolt’ 18”/40”. A sport of ‘Elegans’. Dark blue-green leaves are thick and corrugated with a light yellow ‘thunderbolt’ down the center. The ‘thunderbolt’ turns a creamy white by mid summer. 26” scapes with white flower in mid summer.

Hosta varieties that are slug resistant (but NOT slug proof)

Hosta ‘Sugar Daddy’

IRIS-Iris

Japanese Iris

‘Caprician Butterfly’ 30” tall. Petals are light lavender streaked with purple and slightly ruffled. Throat is prurple with yellow markings. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

‘Crystal Halo’ 32” tall Large dark purple flowers with a white picotee edge and deeper purple veins. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

‘Fortune’ 32” tall. White falls with slight purple veining and purple standards. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

‘Freckled Geisha’ 36” tall. White flowers are speckled with violet with violet ruffled edges. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

‘Mt. Fujiyama’ 32” tall. Large pure white flowers. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

‘Pink Lady’ 32” tall. Soft pink flowers. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

‘Royal Robes’ 32”tall. Dark purple flowers with a yellow eye. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

‘Variegata’ 28” tall. Very dark purple flowers with wonderful green and white striped foliage. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

Tall Bearded German Iris

‘Again and Again’ 36” tall. Bright yellow flowers. Fragrant. May re-bloom. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer. Zones 3-9.

‘Avalon Sunset’ 36” tall. Bright orange flowers with ‘Tangerine beards. Petals are nicely ruffled. Strong stems.

‘Baltic Star’ 34” tall. Purple-black flowers. Falls have white centers leading to violet and then purple-black edges. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer. Zones 3-9.

‘Best Bet’ 36” tall. Flowers have light blue standards with darker blue falls. Possible re-bloomer. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer. Zones 3-9.

'Dusky Challenger’ 39” tall. Huge dark purple flowers. Petals are ruffled and have a silky appearance. Stems are well branched. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 3-9.

‘Edith Wolford’ 35” tall. Bi-colored flowers with light yellow standards and violet blue falls. Petals are slightly ruffled. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 3-9.

‘Oronico Flow’ 34” tall. White flowers with purple specks. Petals are ruffled with light purple edges, light purple centers with darker veining. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 3-9.

‘Rock Star’ 30” tall. Flowers are a‘Raspberry-Rose’ color with apricot colored standards speckled and edged with raspberry rose. Ruffled petals. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 3-9.

‘Violet Turner’ 30” tall. Flowers have light purple standards with darker purple falls. Possible re-bloomer. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 3-9.

‘War Chief’ 37” tall. Red flowers. Long bloom time. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer. Zones 3-9.

Iris Pumila –Dwarf German Iris

‘What Again’ 10”12” tall. Standard are light lavender-blue with ‘apricot-yellow’ falls. May re-bloom.
Deer resistant. Zones 3-9.

‘Boo’ 10”12” tall. Bi-color white with light purple falls.
Deer resistant. Zones 3-9.

Siberian Iris

‘Blue Moon’ 36” tall. Large violet blue flowers with light blue styles. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

‘Butter and Sugar’ 28” tall. Creamy white standards with butter yellow falls. May re-bloom. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

‘Contrast in Styles’ 28” tall. Center petals are red-purple and light blue. Falls are purple-red. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

‘Sky Wings’ 28” tall. Light sky-blue flowers. Deer resistant. Blooms early summer. Zones 3-9.

‘White Swirl’ 32” tall. Large white flowers. Deer resistant. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 4-9.

JOE PYE WEED – Eupatorium  (This one is dedicated to my good friend Joe!)

‘Phantom’ 30”-36” tall. A short variety. Large cluster of bright fuchsia flowers on purple stems. Well branched and long bloom time. Fragrant. Blooms late summer to fall. Deer resistant. Sun to part shade. Zones 4-8. The tall variety of Joe Pye Weed is a Mike's Must Have; I have not seen this one in action yet but put me down as very interested.

Thanks for reading this post! "K-P" will be available in a few days OR email us at skillins@maine.rr.com and we will send you the whole list of Skillin's 2010 Perennial Additions as a Word Document!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 22, 2010

Hostas in the Landscape

Hello again,


Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club (http://www.paulparent.com/) sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM.

"When I was ten years old, my Mother received free seed packets by saving the end stickers from the bag that bread came in. With five kids, it did not take long for her to collect enough Wonder Bread stickers for seeds for the whole yard. That was 50 years ago; in those days there were very few seeds for the shade garden. At that time there was one perennial that was king of the shade garden--and still is today. That plant is the hosta!

Hosta is shade-tolerant, rather than shade-loving. It will thrive on the edges of woodlands, under high limbed trees like oaks, maples, pines and spruce. Hosta will also grow well in the back of the house, a fence or at the base of a stone wall. The best place to grow hosta is open wooded areas, filtered shaded areas and in gardens with only morning sunshine.

If you can grow rhododendrons, azaleas, mountain laurel and hollies in your foundation plantings you can grow hosta. For the best hosta plants select a garden or planting area that is sheltered from winds that can steal the moisture from the plant's foliage during the hot days of summer.

Hostas have big leaves and the wind can steal water from the plant quickly. They are frost-hardy perennials with a fibrous root system. The plant grows in a compact rounded mound of wonderful colored, variegated or green foliage.

From the center of the plant will rise tall stems filled with tubular, bell-like, funnel-like and sometimes almost spider-like flowers. The flowers will range from white to purple in color, and single to double petals. If the bees do their job, the flowers will produce small jelly bean shaped seed pods.

The foliage appears in early spring and last well into the fall. The foliage of the hosta is what most of us grow the plant for--flowers are a bonus. Each leaf has a long stem that lifts it from the ground to help display the leaf color, shape, texture and unusual character. Variegated leaf varieties are unique as no two leaves on the plant are identical. Did you know that hostas have juvenile small foliage in the spring and larger summer foliage?

When my Dad first planted hosta on the shaded side of the house, he had very few varieties to choose from: solid green leaf and green and white variegated forms. Today hostas come in many forms and are classified by size, shape, leaf blade, finish, color, and venation. Also by size--miniature to giant--almost like we grade eggs.

If you want to grow hostas, you will need a fertile soil with a lot of organic matter, such as compost, animal manure or peat moss. The garden soil should be kept moist at all times but well drained--with no standing water ever! Clay-type soil must be broken up with conditioners such as compost and coarse sand. Provide shade for the leaves and protection from the wind. Plants grow best with one inch of water per week and spring fertilization. I use a good perennial fertilizer such as Plant-tone, Dr. Earth General Purpose, or Bradfield Organics General Purpose Organic Plant Food. Remember--the healthier the soil, the better it is fed, and if you provide the right amount of light the plant will grow better.

Add a little bark mulch or compost around the plant to control weeds, hold summer moisture around the plant and help protect the plant during the winter and your shade garden will be one to enjoy all summer. If slugs appear, use Sluggo or Sluggo Plus to control them, and remember--these two products are safe and effective. "

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 21, 2010

Out in the Country!

KCB is a professional gardener and friend who does wonderful work in the Greater Portland area. KCB is also an accredited Master Gardener by the Cooperative Extension Service and we are honored to have KCB as part of our Skillin's Garden Log family. KCB can also be found at www.finishingtouchesgardendesign.com/.

Long ‘power drives’ in the country is a favorite pastime of mine. It’s a way to think, unwind and regroup. A mystery or romantic novel in the form of an audio book resonates from the speakers. Detours, walks, and a quick lunch round out the time. It is widely known I no longer have the company of a canine companion so usually I venture out alone. This past weekend I had the good fortune to be accompanied by a friend. My cohort is residing in Maine for now but looks forward to returning to England their once and future home. I am so envious.


Not sure if I ever have written much about my feelings for England. Perhaps I was/am afraid. As full-blooded Irish lass, whose ancestry lies in the north of Ireland, I harbor conflicting allegiances. Lots of history between the Brits and the Irish. My upbringing was so that we couldn’t even drink English Breakfast Tea. Cadbury Chocolate was banned; Schweppes ginger ale would not find shelf space in our refrigerator. My morphing into an Anglophile would surely mark me as a rebellious child if parents and grandparents were still with me. I continue to honor and value my heritage yet justify my interest with the realization that my mother’s passport clearly sited her as a subject of the United Kingdom. As a child, the heartbreak in this discovery was kindred to the truth about Santa Claus. Or, more recently, the activities of Tiger Woods.

Now back to my Sunday ride in the country with a British companion. Our idea or perhaps it is my take on ‘country’ is different from theirs. I admit our adventure did not include estates of sprawling lawns highlighted with field stone cottages with roofs of slate or thatch. No moors of heath and heather or rocky cliffs above the waves did we pass. The country viewed from our window were the back roads that twist and turn between Freeport and Boothbay. All too congested to be ‘country’. Houses too close to the road, backyards of deep water frontage, boat docks, or outcroppings of ledge. Not much snow along our route. The visible lawns mimicked the color of the sandy beaches. It was difficult to imagine blades of green.

The lack of anything in bloom was a disappointment to my car mate. Surely by now the cupped petals of crocus and hellebores should be open to the sun. Wasn’t Maine further south than England? Aren’t we on the coast? Then where are the first buds of the Daphne? Some may not know this but the Cold Hardiness Zones of England range from the low of 7b (5 – 10f) to 10a (30- 40f). Even their low is higher than anywhere in New England. This is one of the reasons I dream of retiring to the Southern West Coast (the other side of the Atlantic) which boasts hardiness zones from 9a to 10a. A longer growing season without the heat of the south as we know it, could a girl ask for anything more? Perhaps but that will have to wait until another story.

My English friend is not a gardener yet our conversation this day included more than a few references. After all, I was in the car. He spoke of his parent’s gardens and the struggle to grow tomatoes while potatoes being no problem. Temperate climes do not necessarily mean full sun and I sited this as the reason for nonexistent fruit. Wanting to prove my theory my friend asked if his condo balcony would be a good place to grow tomatoes. The prospect was inviting. Waiting until June to start the process was not.

While tomatoes may not flourish in the gardens of our British allies we can learn a lot about gardening from the Brits.

Our garden talk highlighted the differences in the typical garden in The States vs. England. Across the pond gardening is more than a past time, it is an avocation. Everyone does it. Postage stamp yards overflow with herbs, roses, delphinium and peas. Containers and raised beds add additional space. Homemade green houses and potting benches are more common than propane grills and picnic tables. Lawns are reserved for larger estates. Tending beds is easier, better for the environment and more rewarding than a patch of sod.

The country manors of the gentile set aren’t all form and formality. Kitchen gardens are tended for generations. Herbs are meant to be picked fresh not purchased. Rosemary will over winter in all but the coldest of seasons. February will bring the first planting of peas and parsnips. There is truly no down time other than January. Not fair.

My friend finds it curious why we compartmentalize our gardens with veggies in one area, ornamentals another and a section for the herbs. With a true English Garden ornamentals are tucked among the vegetables, herbs even fruit trees and shrubs. Most city homes make the most of the space available. Beyond the front yard gate await a tiny plot filled with color and interest no patch of land or vertical possibility is left untended. Among the creative chaos is a serene sanctuary.

I explained that this trend is finally taking hold in ‘the states’ as they call our USA. In the gardens I tend I have included herbs such as lavender for texture and fragrance and chives as an ornamental and to keep deer at bay. Allium has become a staple. Tomatoes make good companions of marigolds. High or low bush blueberries are included for autumn interest. The berries, if not consumed by the birds are a bonus. Imagine a vine weaving along a path with yellow trumpet flowers and later sporting a pumpkin. (Small varieties work best). Add vertical interest with Peas, or pole beans. I once visited a display garden that featured cherry tomatoes growing along a trellis. The pops of red were stunning and were easily picked at the ready.

As far as lawns go, reduce the size. This was referenced in an earlier writing. My next will deal more on this subject.

With the temperature at 40 and the sky of blue I think I’ll venture out. This time for a power walk. The ride will have to wait until another time.

KCB for
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 19, 2010

Skillin's Perennial Additions for 2010! A-D

Hello again!

Following is a list of Skillin's perennial plant additions for 2010. This list is compiled by Becky and Elaine from our Skillin's production facility. It is a long list but it makes for some practical and interesting reading! I will add some of my own comments (in black italics) to some individual plants as we go along but what follows is a good plant by plant description of what will be new in Skillin's perennial yard in 2010!

ALKANET – Brunnera

Variegata’ 12”-15” tall. Green leaves with a irregular white edge. Cluster of ‘forget-me-not’ flowers blooms in late spring and early summer. Needs shade and adequate moisture or will get leaf scorch.

Deer resistant. Blooms late summer-early summer. Zones 3-8. Love the brunnera, it is known as the perennial forget me not. The white edge will surely be a nice touch!

ARKANSAS BLUE STAR –Amsonia

‘Blue Ice’ 12”-16” tall. A more compact form of Amsonia. Buds are a dark blue and open to star shaped, periwinkle colored flowers. Flower are larger than tabernaemontana. Willowy foliage turns yellow in fall.
Forms a compact mass like a small shrub. Deer resistant. Sun to part shade. Zones 3-9. I have the taller Texas Blue Star in my perennial garden and it is gorgeous. It is one of my longer lasting perennials--I think it has been in my garden for about 15 years so it is VERY hardy. The yellow fall foliage color is quite attractive--I recommend both plants!

ASTER – Aster

‘Alert’ 12”-15” tall. Dense clusters of purple-red flowers. Blooms late summer to mid-fall. N. American Native. Zones 3-8.

‘First Snow’ 18”-24” tall. Dense and spreading up to 40”. Profuse blooms of small white flowers in late summer and fall. Looks wonderful sprawling over walls or mixed with evergreen shrubs. Prefers poor to average soils and is mildew resistant. Zones 3-9.

BARRENWORT – Epimedium

‘Merlin’ 10” tall. Flowers are spurless and dusky violet and white in color. Will tolerate dry shade. Part sun to shade. Zones 4-8.

BELLFLOWER – Campanula

‘Pantaloons’ 28” tall. Dangling bell-shaped flowers that consist of a flower-within-a-flower. The edges of the petals are frilly with purple spots on the inside. Blooms early summer thru late summer if spent stems are cut back. This plant is a vigorous grower so give it plenty of room. Excellent cut flower. Deer resistant.

Sun to part shade. Zones 5-9.

BELLWORT – Uvularia

‘Uvularia grandiflora’ 12”-14” tall. Pendulous, yellow bell-shaped flowers with twisted petals. Arching stems. Native to N. America. Shade to part shade. Zones 4-9.

BITTERROOT –Lewisia

‘Little Plum’ 6” tall. Purple-pink flower clusters with an orange tint. Deep green leathery leaves from low-growing rosettes. This plant need good drainage and is perfect for rock gardens. Blooms in spring Full sun to part shade. zones 5-7.

BLACKBERRY LILY – Belamcanda

chinensis 24-36” tall. 2” star-shaped flowers in shade of yellow to dark orange all with red spots. Sword-shaped foliage similar to German Iris. Blooms late summer. Very attractive seed pods and seed heads. Tan pods open to expose dark purple-black seed heads that persist thru the winter and are great for fresh and dried flower arrangements. Zones 5-10. Full Sun. Attracts butterflies. This looks really, really interesting to me. Zone 5...could be a little tender for some of the interior and northern areas of Skillin's Country. The perennials that interest me most are those that have multi season interest. Late summer blooms, seed heads that persist thru winter make this a great candidate for that multi season look that I like! Great value!

BLACK-EYED SUSAN – Rudbeckia

H. ‘Goldilocks’ 10”-15” tall. Golden orange semi-double to double flowers with brown centers. Blooms summer. Sun to part shade. Zones 5-8. The colors in the Rudbeckia family are always stunning!

H. ‘Maya’ 18”-20” tall. 3”-4” double flowers with green centers. Strong stems. Blooms summer thru fall. Full sun. Zones 5-9.

H. ‘Prairie Sun’ 28”-36” tall. Flowers have gold petals with light yellow tips and green centers. Blooms mid summer to early fall. Sun to part shade. Zones 5-9.

‘Henry Eilers’ 60” tall. A native rudbeckia with light gold flowers that have ‘rolled’ petals that form a tube.Clusters of flowers form on airy well-branched stems. Best in a natural setting or in the back of the border. Deer resistant. Blooms summer. Zones 3-9. I wonder how long this blossoms into late summer or fall? Sounds like a great plant for that time of year! Zone 3 to boot!

‘Viette’s Little Suzy’ 12”-14” tall. A dwarf rudbeckia. Compact plants with yellow daisy-like flowers. Blooms from mid-summer until fall. Deer resistant. Zones 3-9. How cute does this sound!

BLACK GROUNDSEL –Ligularia

Late season bloomers that are both striking AND reliable like the Ligularia family are absolute "Mike Must Haves" in the perennial garden! These 2 look like outstanding additions:

‘Britt-Marie Crawford’ 36”-40” tall. Chocolate-maroon leaves that have a dark purple underside. Flat, daisy-like orange-yellow flowers. Deer resistant. Blooms late summer. Zones 3-9.

‘Przewalskii’ 48-60 inches tall. ‘Large arrowhead-shaped leaves with deeply cut edges. Black stems, tall spikes of bright yellow flowers’ in late summer. Deer resistant. Blooms late summer. Zones 3-9.

BLANKET FLOWER – Gaillardia

‘Amber Wheels’ 28”-32” tall. Large yellow-gold flowers with fringed petals. Blooms early summer thru early fall if deadheaded. Deer resistant. Zones 3-10. A tall gaillardia--intriguing!

‘Golden Goblin’ 15” tall. Gold colored flowers on compact plants. Blooms summer. Full sun. Zones 3-9.

BLEEDING HEART – Dicentra

Spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’ 24”-30” tall. Stunning gold-green foliage with pink heart-shaped flowers.
Plants go dormant in summer. Deer resistant. Blooms in spring. Zones 3-9. The Dicentra clan are great early season plants. Hardy, reliable and great to look at early on!

BUTTERFLY WEED – Asclepias

‘Hello Yellow’- 8”-10” tall. Bright yellow flowers and attractive seed pods. Late to break dormancy. Prefers drier soils that are well drained. Deer resistant. Blooms July-August. Zones 3-7. The Butterfly Weed is one of THE most sought after perennial plants at Skillin's and this should be a wonderful addition!


CARDINAL FLOWER – Lobelia

Lobelia cardinalis 3’-4’ tall. Bright red flower spikes on upright plants with green lance-like leaves. Will grow in moist locatons. Deer resistant and hummingbirds love it. This plant prefers part shade. Blooms late summer to early fall. Native to the US. Zones 3-9. I am also a "sucker" for anything bright red; the flowering timing on this plant looks just great! We are only into the C's and I can already tell I am going to have to be digging more lawn out for new perennial beds!

CATMINT – Nepeta

‘Kit Kat’ 18” tall with a spread of 30 “. A dwarf variety of nepeta. Forms a wide dense clump good for rock gardens and ground cover in sunny, dry areas. Flowers are smaller but more numerous and very blue in color. Blooms early to late summer. Deer resistant. Zones 3-8. Nepeta is another popular perennial at Skillin's. Very attractive and so darned hardy. This plant looks very impressive!

CLEMATIS – Clematis

‘Duchess of Edinburgh’ Double white flowers with yellow anthers. Blooms May, June and Sept.

‘Fireworks’ Light blue petals with a red bar down the center. Petals are slightly twisted. Red anthers. Blooms early and late summer.

‘Kilian Donahue’ Orchid colored petals with center bars that start out ruby red and fade to magenta pink and then pink as they mature. White anthers with burgundy tips. Early bloomer with repeat blooming throughout the summer.

‘Silver Moon’ Large silver-mauve flowers 7”-8” wide. Very long bloom time and blooms throughout the summer. Does well in full to partial shade.

‘Westerplatte’ Velvety red flowers with dark red anthers 4”-5” wide. Blooms late June and early fall.

COLUMBINE – Aquilegia

‘Black Current Ice’ 6”-12” tall. A dwarf Columbine. Flowers have are short spurred with dark purple petals and creamy yellow corollas. Short and compact mounding. Great for rock gardens. Columbine last for years and years because they have a long tap root; so once they are anchored in they are companions for a long time! Because of the long tap root they do not always transplant from one spot to another well so think carefully about where you want to plant them. We sell a few different varieties of columbine and any one of them qualify as a" Mike Must Have" plant.

‘Carol Ann’ 30” tall. Soft pink with very short spurs. Blooms late spring to early summer. Zones 3-9.

CONEFLOWER – Echinacea

As a group, coneflowers are my favorite perennials and I will let these descriptions stand for themselves. Yes, more of "Mike Must Have" plants!
‘Bright Star’ 30”-48” tall. Large bright pink to lavender flowers with a burgundy cone. Blooms mid to late summer. Deer resistant. Zones 3-8.

‘Green Jewel’ 20”-24” tall. Green cone surrounded by light green petals. Blooms mid to late summer. Deer resistant. Zones 3-8.

‘Big Sky Summer Sky’30”-36” tall. 5” light orange flowers with a rose halo. Fragrant. Blooms mid to late summer. Sun to part shade. Zones 4-8.

CORAL BELLS – Heuchera

You plant the Heuchera because of the leaves; the foliage is usually very attractive and gives interest for the entire season. Heuchera are hardy as can be and yes, are included in Mike's Must Haves!

‘Frosted Violet’ 20” tall. New leaves are a deep maroon-purple and mature to a plum purple with dark veining. Pink flowers. Compact habit. Deer resistant. Blooms early to mid summer.

‘Hollywood’ 8” tall. Purple leaves have a white cast and a slightly ruffled. Coral-red flowers. Long bloom time from late spring thru mid summer. Deer resistant.

CRANESBILL – Geranium

The Cranesbill or perennial geraniums are long-time bloomers over the summer. Mike's Must Have!

‘Dragon Heart’ 24” tall. Flowers are 2” wide, magenta with dark veining and black centers. Clump forming with spreading stems. Blooms early to late summer. Deer resistant. Zones 5-8.

‘Jolly Bee’ 20”-24” tall. Cupped blue flowers with white centers. Heavily flowering. ‘Similar to ‘Rozanne’ but with a more upright growth habit’. Long blooming. Deer resistant. Blooms summer. Zones 4-8.

CUSHION SPURGE – Euphorbia

‘Bonfire’ 18” tall. Leaves are a combination of purple, red and orange. Bracts are bright yellow in spring. Mounding habit. Blooms in spring. Deer resistant. Sun to part shade. Zones 5-9.

‘First Blush’ 12” tall. Leaves are light green with cream margins which are tinged with pink from spring into summer. Yellow bracts in spring. Forms low mounds. Blooms in spring. Deer resistant. Sun to part shade. Zones 4-7.

DAYLILY – Hemerocallis

Hemerocallis--obviously a staple of Mike's Must Have--are so stunning in their flowering (typically mid July to early August) and so reliable in their hardiness! I love them too because their canopy of foliage shades the ground under them so as to really cut back on the weeds. Don't laugh--it's true!

Yellow Varieties

‘Big Smile’ – 24” tall. Large 7” flowers. Bright lemon yellow flowers. Petals are ruffled with a pink blush edge. Blooms mid-summer. May re-bloom.

‘Going Bananas’ 19’-22’. An improvement over ‘Happy Returns’. Larger flowers bloom continuously from early summer thru early fall. Flowers are canary yellow with recurved petals and slightly ruffled margins. Heavy bloomer with 10-15 flowers per scape.

‘Irish Envy’ 25” tall. Light yellow flowers 6” wide with a lime green throat. Flowers are fragrant. Petals are recurved with slightly ruffled edges. Flowers may remain open for up to 16 hours. Blooms in early summer. May re-bloom.

Orange Varieties

‘Pumpkin Festival’ 20” tall. Large peachy-orange flowers with a wine colored eye and matching pie crust edge and a god throat. Blooms mid summer.

‘Spellbinder’ 34” tall. Large 6.5” gold-orange flowers. Fragrant. Heavily budded with sturdy scapes.Blooms early to mid-summer. May re-bloom.

Red Varieties

‘Bela Lugosi’ 33” tall. We are bringing this one back because we absolutely love it. It is considered one of the best dark purple daylilies available. 6” dark purple flowers with a bright green throat. Color is incredibly sunfast. Heavily budded and well branched. Blooms mid summer.

‘Jungle Beauty’ 30” tall. Black-red flowers , 5.5” wide with a yellow-green throat. Color is very sunfast. Blooms mid summer.

‘Ruby Stella’ 18” tall. Beautiful ruby-red flowers with a small yellow throat. Flowers are slightly fragrant. Good re-bloomer. Blooms early summer. Re-blooms.

‘Velvet Thunder’ 28” tall. Dark red flowers with a narrow cream edge half way up the slightly ruffled petals. Flowers have a bright green throat and are fragrant. Flowers open in late afternoon and stay open for at least 16 hours. Scapes are heavily budded. Blooms mid summer.

Pink\Peach\Plum Varieties

‘Blueberry Candy’ 22” tall. Ivory colored flowers with a blueberry colored eye and a think blueberry colored picotee edge half way up the petals. Well branched, heavy bloomer. Blooms mid-summer. May re-bloom.

‘Eleonore’ 28” tall. Large 6” flowers. Flowers are lavender-blue with a prominent green throat. Inner petals are slightly ruffled. Blooms early to mid summer. Long bloomer. May re-bloom.

‘Hush Little Baby’ 22” tall. 5” rose-pink flowers with heavily ruffled petals and a yellow-green throat.
Blooms mid to late summer.

‘Inwood’ 25” tall. Pale peachy-cream flowers, 6.5 inches wide with a plum-purple eye and matching picotee edge and yellow-green throat. Scapes are heavily budded. Blooms early to mid-summer. May re-bloom.

Early Bloomers

Daylily ‘Eleonore’

Daylily ‘Going Bananas’

Daylily ‘Inwood’

Daylily ‘Irish Envy’

Daylily ‘Ruby Stella’

Mid Summer Bloomers

Daylily ‘Big Smile’

Daylily ‘Pumpkin Festival’

Daylily ‘Spellbinder’

Daylily ‘Bela Lugosi’

Daylily ‘Jungle Beauty’

Daylily ‘Velvet Thunder’

Daylily ‘Blueberry Candy’

Late Summer Bloomers

Daylily ‘Hush Little Baby’

Possible Re-Bloomers

Daylily ‘Big Smile’

Daylily ‘Blueberry Candy’

Daylily ‘Eleonore’

Daylily ‘Going Bananas’

Daylily ‘Inwood’

Daylily ‘Irish Envy’

Daylily ‘Ruby Stella’

Daylily ‘Spellbinder’

This perennials additions list is only A-D; just email us at skillins@maine.rr.com and we will send you the entire list as a Word Document. Or we will have E-J available here at the Skillin's Garden Log in just a few days!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 16, 2010

Soil for Containers; My bulbs are Coming Up!

Hello again!

We received a couple of great email questions from our customers in the last couple of days and here they are!

Customer Sharon L had a question about using old soil in containers: "Can I save potting soil from annual plants to reuse later, instead of always buying new potting soil? That is what I have always done, but not sure if it's ok. Always trying to recycle plus save money whenever possible."

Our answer: This is a great question. What I usually do is reuse about ½ of my old soil and devote the other ½ of the container to new soil. For the soil I most often recommend Bar Harbor Blend by Coast of Maine Organics. It is locally produced, it is the BEST soil I have ever used and it is a better price than the brand names—(because it is locally produced and transported).


I devote the unused ½ of the soil to either new containers OR put it in my compost pile. I use quite a bit of my own compost as mulch around my perennials and annuals (another cost saving technique).

Customer Joanne's question: "My daffodils are up about 1/2 inch or more next to the house. No snow. Should I cover them with shredded leaves or leave them alone?"

Our answer: Mine too! This lack of snow plus warm weather has the bulbs like daffodil and crocus revved up. At this point I would leave them alone; they will still blossom at the proper time. When we do get more snow; I will shovel a little extra on top of my daffodils but that is about it!



We love customer questions! Drop us a question anytime at skillins@maine.rr.com and we will get you an answer. We answer the question directly to you and then if we feel the question is really topical we will include the information (but not give away your identity) right here at the Skillin's Garden Log!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 14, 2010

African Violets and Low Light

Hello again,

This past week we received an email customer query from customer Carole about a problem with her African Violets.

Here is Carole's question:

"My beautiful African Violets have stopped flowering and the leaves are growing too long. This has been happening over the last month or so. I repotted one after it stopped blooming. Is there anything I can do to bring my flowers back and why are the leaves growing so long and straight up? Thank you so much for all your help."


Here is our answer:

"Carole, Mary and Joe have taken a look at your note and immediately and expertly have identified the problem as lack of light!


We would suggest you move the plants closer to the window and make sure the pots have plenty of space. As the quality of light improves, the plants should “straighten out” and be on their way to flowering!

The past few months (November, December and January) are the worst 3 months of the year for light QUALITY. Many houseplants have a difficult time near and after the end of this period."

Contact us at skillins@maine.rr.com anytime for gardening questions and we will get an answer to you!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 13, 2010

Dark American Arborvitae

(picture borrowed from the Paul Parent Garden Club)

Hello again,

Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club (http://www.paulparent.com/) sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website (http://www.paulparent.com/) to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM.

Here is some of what Paul had to say this past week:

"The Arborvitae is one of the most popular evergreen shrubs/trees used in the landscape today. It is sometimes referred to as the "white cedar," but it is not in the cedar family. Look around your neighborhood; you might be surprised to see that many of the homes on your street have arborvitaes in their yards. These evergreen plants are used on the end of homes to soften the foundation lines. They are planted in rows to create a natural fence or barrier for privacy between homes. They are planted along the road for noise barrier from the traffic, on open property as a wind break--and occasionally one is planted all by itself in the yard.

Arborvitae are upright growing, rather stiff-looking and almost pyramidal in shape. These evergreen plants are dark green during the spring to fall; their color fades to brown-green during the winter. When exposed to winter sun and wind, the color change will be more noticeable but when spring arrives the new growth will give the plant a new look. It will grow in most soils from the sandy loam of Cape Cod to the clay of Maine. When traveling in wooded areas of New England, look for this plant; it is growing wild in stony soil or even marshy areas. It is a native tree as much as the white pine and the Canadian hemlock. The early explorers called this plant the "tree of life" because the foliage is rich with vitamin C and used to prevent and treat scurvy. Not quite the taste of a fresh Florida orange--but it did the trick.

When planting, make a big hole and backfill with lots of organic matter like compost, peat moss and animal manure. Give it a good start and it will thrive for you. For hedge planting, place plants six feet apart and keep them six feet away from the neighbor's property line or your neighbors will prune them for you. Water weekly the first year to keep to soil moist for quick root development. I suggest that you use a product called Soil Moist when planting in the hole. Soil Moist will expand in the soil and hold 200 times more water than peat moss, making it easier for you when watering. Fertilize spring and fall the first few years to encourage strong-growing plants. When established, feed in the spring--after pruning to control size if needed. Holly-Tone or Plant Growth Activator both have mycorrhizae microbes that will accelerate the plant's growth.

In the spring you will see yellow cones on the plant; when mature in the fall, the cones will turn brown. They will be in clusters on the new growth and stand out against the dark green foliage. In the summer it is not uncommon to see yellow foliage in the center of the plant. This foliage turns yellow due to lack of sunshine, because the plant is very dense. Do not worry--just think of this natural event as a cleaning of the older foliage, like the leaves falling from your maple trees in the fall. New growth in the spring will replace it and keep it dense.

When you select the plants, look for plants that have one or two main stems. If you plant arborvitaes with multiple stems in open areas and you get heavy wet snow or ice, the plant will split apart with the weight on the branches. Once they grow together, they will brace themselves together and are less susceptible to damage. The 'Dark American' will grow to 20 to 30 feet tall, but can be pruned to grow to just about any height. Look for the 'Techny,' which grows 10 to 15 feet tall, and the 'Green Giant,' at 30 to 40 feet tall and deer resistant. Deer are the number one pest problem so if you have deer, be practical and plant something else"

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 13, 2010

Climbing Hydrangea

Hello again,

Good gardening friend Paul Parent of the Paul Parent Garden Club (http://www.paulparent.com/) sends out a great newsletter every week with pertinent gardening topics. I encourage you to go to his website (http://www.paulparent.com/) to sign up for his newsletter. Paul can also be heard every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 10 AM at his website or at WBACH (104.7 FM) every Sunday morning from 6 AM to 9 AM.

Here is some of what Paul had to say this past week:

"My favorite climbing vine for outside is the climbing hydrangea; it will grow in the sun or shade. You purchase the plants in large containers, as this plant will grow quickly on woody stems. The climbing hydrangea will attach itself to any surface with a form of clinging roots on its stem.

When planting, place the plant right up against the surface you want it to grow on. Most plants will have multiple stems growing from the base of the plant, so spread them in a fan design on the surface and attach them to the surface with duct tape. This will hold the stems in place and allow the climbing roots to attach themselves to their new home much faster. Once the roots form on the surface, remove the duct tape and it will climb all by itself.

Climbing hydrangeas are deciduous, so they lose their leaves during the winter months. The stems are brown and have a papery look, almost like a birch tree with peeling bark. In the fall, the green leaves turn bright yellow for four weeks or more before falling.

In the spring, the plant is covered with heart-shaped dark green leaves. The stems attached to the surface will produce branches 12 to 18 inches long, giving the surface a soft look and providing a great place for birds to nest in. In time, the tip of the branches will make a creamy white flower, during the late spring or early summer. The flowers, lasting 4 to 6 weeks on the plant; form a cluster of lacy flowers. Each cluster is large and has many large four-petal blossoms that are surrounded with a mass of smaller flowers. This combination of large and small flower together is referred to as a "lace cap" flower. The flowers dry on the plant and turn tan in color--sometimes lasting until the following spring. Nice to see during the winter, when they are covered with snow.

The climbing hydrangea is a plant that requires patience while waiting for its flowers. It may take as long as five years for flowers to form on the plant--but once they start, they will come every year. Believe me, it is worth the wait and once they begin, the flower count will increase each year. When planting, be sure to use plenty of organic matter in the hole. The soil should be well drained--and be sure to keep plants away from gutter downspouts. I like to use the new fertilizers that contain mycorrhizae microbes. These microbes will help speed up the root and top growth on the plant. Keep the soil moist until fall to help the plant to get established in your yard.

If you plant in the sun, it will not grow as well as when planted in the shade. Also, climbing hydrangeas growing in the sun may be chewed on by Japanese Beetles, but not when planted in the shade. Prune to control the growth of the plant if it tries to cover windows, or grow it as a clump plant on a stump or along a stone wall. The climbing hydrangea can--and will--grow as high as three stories all by itself, so you may need to prune to control the size. I like to fertilize with Plant Tone that contains mycorrhizae microbes for root and stem growth. The plant has no real problem with diseases and insects and it is so easy to grow. If you have a blank wall on the north side of the house or garage this plant will do wonders for you, and the green foliage and white flowers will change the look of the building or wall. "

Folks this is a great article on of our favorite vines; the climbing hydrangea. On May 1 at Skillin's we will be holding a class called Vine Time and the climbing hydrangea will be featured. Check out My favorite climbing vine for outside is the climbing hydrangea; it will grow in the sun or shade. You purchase the plants in large containers, as this plant will grow quickly on woody stems. The climbing hydrangea will attach itself to any surface with a form of clinging roots on its stem.

When planting, place the plant right up against the surface you want it to grow on. Most plants will have multiple stems growing from the base of the plant, so spread them in a fan design on the surface and attach them to the surface with duct tape. This will hold the stems in place and allow the climbing roots to attach themselves to their new home much faster. Once the roots form on the surface, remove the duct tape and it will climb all by itself.

Climbing hydrangeas are deciduous, so they lose their leaves during the winter months. The stems are brown and have a papery look, almost like a birch tree with peeling bark. In the fall, the green leaves turn bright yellow for four weeks or more before falling.

In the spring, the plant is covered with heart-shaped dark green leaves. The stems attached to the surface will produce branches 12 to 18 inches long, giving the surface a soft look and providing a great place for birds to nest in. In time, the tip of the branches will make a creamy white flower, during the late spring or early summer. The flowers, lasting 4 to 6 weeks on the plant; form a cluster of lacy flowers. Each cluster is large and has many large four-petal blossoms that are surrounded with a mass of smaller flowers. This combination of large and small flower together is referred to as a "lace cap" flower. The flowers dry on the plant and turn tan in color--sometimes lasting until the following spring. Nice to see during the winter, when they are covered with snow.

The climbing hydrangea is a plant that requires patience while waiting for its flowers. It may take as long as five years for flowers to form on the plant--but once they start, they will come every year. Believe me, it is worth the wait and once they begin, the flower count will increase each year. When planting, be sure to use plenty of organic matter in the hole. The soil should be well drained--and be sure to keep plants away from gutter downspouts. I like to use the new fertilizers that contain mycorrhizae microbes. These microbes will help speed up the root and top growth on the plant. Keep the soil moist until fall to help the plant to get established in your yard.

If you plant in the sun, it will not grow as well as when planted in the shade. Also, climbing hydrangeas growing in the sun may be chewed on by Japanese Beetles, but not when planted in the shade. Prune to control the growth of the plant if it tries to cover windows, or grow it as a clump plant on a stump or along a stone wall. The climbing hydrangea can--and will--grow as high as three stories all by itself, so you may need to prune to control the size. I like to fertilize with Plant Tone, or the new Dr. Earth All-Purpose Fertilizer that contains mycorrhizae microbes for root and stem growth. The plant has no real problem with diseases and insects and it is so easy to grow. If you have a blank wall on the north side of the house or garage this plant will do wonders for you, and the green foliage and white flowers will change the look of the building or wall. "

Folks for more information about Vines, come to our Vine Time class on May 1 at 2 PM at any Skillin's location. For more info about our classes click on
"Spring 2010 Classes at Skillin's!" at the Garden Log archive menu for a great description of all our classes!

Mike Skillin
Skillin's Greenhouses
February 12, 2010